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ESTETICA Magazine USA (2/2023)

Estetica Magazine is the world's leading hairdressing magazine. Founded in Italy in 1946 and published today in over 60 countries around the world, it is a global reference point for professionals working in the hair and beauty industry. Techniques, fashion, education and trends are at the core of every issue of Estetica Magazine. Further information about both the printed and digital versions of the magazine is available at magazines.esteticanetwork.com

Estetica Magazine is the world's leading hairdressing magazine. Founded in Italy in 1946 and published today in over 60 countries around the world, it is a global reference point for professionals working in the hair and beauty industry. Techniques, fashion, education and trends are at the core of every issue of Estetica Magazine. Further information about both the printed and digital versions of the magazine is available at magazines.esteticanetwork.com

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<strong>USA</strong> EDITION<br />

BLONDING<br />

Inifinite choices!<br />

All gorgeous!<br />

HAIRCARE<br />

Protecting your<br />

second ‘skin’<br />

COLORLOVE!<br />

So many colors,<br />

so little time!


BELIEVE IN<br />

WHAT HAIR<br />

CAN BE<br />

POWERED BY<br />

SILK+ TECHNOLOGY<br />

FOR STRONGER,<br />

MORE BEAUTIFUL HAIR.<br />

KERASILK, built on 40 years of innovation, 100% vegan<br />

and enhanced by Biomimetic Silk, will make you believe in<br />

the transformative power of hair care.


haireditorial<br />

Nothing beats color. And we’ve got<br />

the goods to prove it!<br />

So let’s face the truth. Hairdressers are like surgeons: they love cutting!<br />

Not only do they literally hone their cutting tools regularly for optimal<br />

precision, they are also continually sharpening their cutting skills,<br />

studying videos of techniques and directioning. They try out new tools<br />

like razors, shears, and clippers. Then there are cutting-edge trends<br />

(pun intended!) to keep their clients’ looks updated. But good<br />

hairdressers also acknowledge that cutting is only half of it.<br />

Because perhaps nothing is quite as exciting as to see what expert<br />

Marie Scarano<br />

Editor-in-Chief<br />

colorists are working on and the advancements they are making.<br />

How are they are placing color on the cut to enhance its shape? How<br />

are they applying complementary shades and subtle nuances to make<br />

the most of the dimensions they want the light to bring to life.<br />

And like with cutting, they need to keep up with all the innovations<br />

in the latest products and tools that are capable of making each and every<br />

one of their visions come to life on a model or - better yet - on a client!<br />

Our summer issue is brimming with just the information and inspiration<br />

you’re looking for. On color and styling of course, but also on<br />

competitions, events, and more. And our QR Codes open the gateway to<br />

more in-depth and additional coverage of what you’re most interested in.<br />

Enjoy!<br />

03E


We have reinvented the<br />

way hairdryers are made:<br />

Ultra-light<br />

294 g.<br />

Motor speed<br />

110.000 rpm.<br />

Extra<br />

LONG LIFE<br />

THE BEST OF<br />

ITALIAN DESIGN<br />

SLEEK . COMPACT . ELEGANT


In this issue:<br />

HAIR editorial Nothing beats color 03<br />

<strong>ESTETICA</strong><br />

THE HAIR MAGAZINE<br />

esteticamagazine.com<br />

N. 148<br />

02/<strong>2023</strong><br />

photoshoot Cover story 06<br />

pride Pride parade 08<br />

direction Blending blondes 10<br />

inspiration Picture perfect! 16<br />

Best of <strong>USA</strong> Soupçon of style 18<br />

trends A total spectrum for hair: without exception 25<br />

Cover Story<br />

CHIC & Royal Treatment Collections<br />

Featuring LG CHI Color Master Factory<br />

Hair: M. Ayvazian, P. Kalle,<br />

W. Palmer, J. Bernard & S. Harris<br />

Photo: M. Ghanayem<br />

Make-up: J. Marin & A. Reyna<br />

Styling: A. Cohen<br />

PRO special color Artistic alternatives 74<br />

interview In exclusive: Angus Mitchell 78<br />

hair care Exposome? Safe in the sun! 80<br />

brands Products 84<br />

web choice Tips & trends 86<br />

events ABS. Focus on industry excellence 88<br />

events IHA <strong>2023</strong> 90<br />

events Premiere Orlando 92<br />

$<br />

CONTACTS<br />

Marlena DuRon<br />

1564 Seabridge Lane,<br />

Oxnard, CA 93035 (<strong>USA</strong>)<br />

Tel. + 1 3104153360<br />

marlenaduron@gmail.com<br />

à<br />

SUBSCRIPTIONS<br />

e-mail: customercare@estetica.it<br />

6<br />

ONLINE<br />

www.esteticamagazine.com<br />

PUBLISHER AND MANAGING DIRECTOR<br />

Roberto Pissimiglia<br />

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF<br />

Marie Scarano - esteticausa@estetica.it<br />

INTERNATIONAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF<br />

Laura Castelli - l.castelli@estetica.it<br />

INTERNATIONAL ADVERTISING COORDINATOR<br />

Monica Tessari - m.tessari@estetica.it<br />

INTERNATIONAL COORDINATOR<br />

Emanuela Vaser - e.vaser@estetica.it<br />

LAYOUT<br />

Manuela Artosi, Davide Cardente<br />

ADVERTISING & P.R.<br />

Nives Carena - nivescarena@estetica.it<br />

ESPAÑA<br />

Sergi Bancells, Elisabet Parra<br />

DEUTSCHE AUSGABE<br />

Michaela Dee<br />

FRANCE<br />

Marie Coccoluto<br />

UK<br />

Gary Kelly<br />

ITALIA<br />

Lucia Preziosi, Glorianna Vaschetto,<br />

DIGITAL<br />

Erica Balduini, Erika Marchese,<br />

Stefania Rao


hairphotoshoot<br />

COVER<br />

STORY<br />

THE CHIC & ROYAL TREATMENT COLLECTIONS<br />

COMBINE THE LATEST HAIR ARTISTRY AND<br />

INDUSTRY TECHNOLOGY TO CREATE LUXURIOUS<br />

TRENDSETTING LOOKS.<br />

See the cover<br />

step-by-step here<br />

more<br />

more<br />

CHIC & Royal Treatment collections are<br />

the ultimate expression of the combination<br />

of hair artistry and the first-to-market LG<br />

CHI Color Master Factory, a digitally<br />

controlled color customization system that<br />

has 30,000 recommended formulations with<br />

the possibility to create unlimited color<br />

formulations with exact precision, enabling<br />

the stylist to bring his or her artistry to life.<br />

This is the ultimate innovation, where hair<br />

and technology fuse together to create<br />

art, and the model’s ‘crowning glory’ is the<br />

canvas. When the stylist can rely on such<br />

digital technology in tandem with CHI’s<br />

luxurious Royal Treatment Styling &<br />

Finishing products, the flexibility and<br />

ability to add final touches to your client’s<br />

hair while meeting every styling need<br />

are guaranteed. These collections include<br />

essential styling and finishing products to<br />

fully express creativity and style, whether<br />

it’s avant-garde or classic and sleek.<br />

E06


Hair: M. Ayvazian, P. Kalle,<br />

W. Palmer, J. Bernard, S. Harris,<br />

and assistance from L. Guevara<br />

Photos: Mohammed Ghanayem<br />

Makeup: Jannette Marin and<br />

Ashley Reyna<br />

Styling: Alexandra Cohen<br />

ROYAL TREATMENT BY CHI<br />

Royal Treatment Styling & Finishing is the ultimate haircare must-have collection for<br />

hairdressers seeking exceptional results. Elevate your craft with this luxurious line of salon-quality<br />

products, meticulously formulated with aloe vera, white truffle and pearl. Each one will deliver<br />

extraordinary hold, shine and versatility across hair types. Discover endless styling possibilities.<br />

07E


hairpride<br />

PRIDE<br />

PARADE!<br />

WITH BRIGHT NEW HAIR COLORS, WE WENT FROM UNICORNS TO<br />

MERMAIDS, AND NOW RAINBOW HAIR CONVEYS AN IMPORTANT<br />

MESSAGE.<br />

Marie Scarano<br />

RAINBOWS - the real ones - once<br />

marked the passing of a storm, a<br />

symbol of hope, a legend about a<br />

leprechaun’s pot of gold, a legendary<br />

gateway to Oz. It wasn’t too long ago<br />

that we saw rainbows hanging from<br />

windows and balconies on peace flags<br />

to protest wars. And now this same<br />

representation of the spectrum of<br />

light has taken on a more socially<br />

significant meaning, sending a message<br />

of inclusion and freedom in support<br />

of the LGBTQIA community.<br />

Pravana Vivids hair color proved to<br />

be the perfect means to this end as<br />

these images and our online gallery<br />

demonstrate. Now anyone can<br />

contemporaneously make both a social<br />

and a fashion statement by expressing<br />

their pride in the hair. And the look<br />

can be easily personalized to suit any cut,<br />

length, style, or texture you might prefer!<br />

Take a look at these ideas and show<br />

your pride!<br />

E08<br />

Short, long, crimped,<br />

braided, intense<br />

or subtle, Pravana<br />

Vivids are perfect<br />

for making your<br />

LGBTQIA fashion<br />

statement.<br />

more<br />

more


09E


hairdirection<br />

Royal Treatment by CHI Collection<br />

Hair: Mego Ayvazian and assistance from Lorena Guevara /<br />

Photos: Mohammed Ghanayem / Makeup: Jannette Marin and<br />

Ashley Reyna / Styling: Alexandra Cohen<br />

BLENDING<br />

BLONDES<br />

E10


■ ROYAL TREATMENT, INDEED! The topknot<br />

on the facing page is definitely in a<br />

class of its own. The perfection of this<br />

styling makes it fit for a queen! The<br />

multi-dimensional blonde ranges from<br />

dark ash to platinum. Mego Ayvazian<br />

&Lorena Guevara @ CHI, <strong>USA</strong>/UK<br />

Hair, Makeup, Styling, Photo: Michael Haase<br />

@ Platinumblack a Michael Haase Salon<br />

BASIC BLONDE<br />

DOESN’T EXIST!<br />

THERE ARE MYRIAD<br />

NUANCES AND<br />

TECHNIQUES FOR<br />

A TOTALLY<br />

CUSTOMIZED LOOK<br />

THIS SUMMER.<br />

Gary Kelly & Marie Scarano<br />

▲ SIMPLY CONTEMPORARY “New<br />

blondes are all the rage, getting away<br />

from the swimmers of the sea from<br />

mermaids and unicorns and becoming<br />

“real” girls again. From frosty and<br />

creamy full heads of lightness to shades<br />

of summer and toast for the more<br />

elegant on the planet. If you’re doing a<br />

1000 baby lights you’re working too<br />

hard. You might as well just color the<br />

head and prepare for the “wow” as it<br />

echoes through the land of fashion.”<br />

Michael Haase @Platinum Black, <strong>USA</strong><br />

◆ SUN-KISSED BALAYAGE. “For summer,<br />

it’s all about sun kissed, golden toned<br />

blondes. Warm blonde tones that<br />

instantly add warmth to the complexion.<br />

This image showcases this trend perfectly<br />

and adds a glow to the model’s<br />

complexion. Paired with textured waves,<br />

this is the ultimate summer hair look.The<br />

best way to create the look is by adding<br />

sunkissed blonde balayage and highlights<br />

to the hair and toning to create a seamless<br />

blonde. Always use a product like<br />

Schwarzkopf Fibreplex to keep the hair<br />

in the best condition possible during the<br />

colour process.” Diana Carson (UK)<br />

● MUTED BALAYAGE. “This image is<br />

without a doubt one of my favourites<br />

from this collection, it is absolutely<br />

a trending summer look and really<br />

show-cases the salon trends that<br />

clients ask for and hope to achieve<br />

for their hair. Although not a typical<br />

summer blonde, this muted balayage<br />

is a look that is very much wearable,<br />

not over powering and that can be<br />

maintained easily with the addition of<br />

a stretched root.” Seung ki Baek (UK)<br />

▲<br />

◆<br />

Hair: Diana Carson, Consultant Designer and Artistic Team Member at Rainbow Room International Photo: Chris<br />

Bulezuik / Make-up: MV Makeup / Stylist: Detroit Law<br />

Hair: Seung ki Baek and the RUSH Artistic Team / Make-up: Lan Nguyen-Grealis / Clothes Stylist: Robert<br />

Morrison / Photo: Jack Eames<br />

●<br />

11E


hairdirection<br />

Hair: Ria Kulik, The HairBank, Urmston, Manchester @riak_hair<br />

Hair Creation: Dan Spiller, Sevda Durukan & Alberto Di Domenico / Creative Direction: Bruno Marc<br />

Giamattei / Creative Assistance: Valentina Malta & Gregory Mastrostefano / Make-up: Katie Moore /<br />

Styling: Ellen Spiller / Photo: Jamie Blanshard Products: JOICO<br />

■<br />

■ SUN KISSED CURLS. Summer <strong>2023</strong> is truly<br />

the season of blondes – all shades, tones<br />

and techniques which help us take the client<br />

to their requested colour. This gorgeous<br />

golden blonde resonates with all things<br />

summer – giving a real sun kissed look that<br />

is much sought after by clients of all ages.<br />

Although working with a global application,<br />

I also worked in another two to three<br />

shades of blonde throughout, which added<br />

more dimension and gave the look a real<br />

multi tonal feel. Daniel Spiller (UK)<br />

▲ BARBIE BLONDE. “I’m loving the new<br />

Barbie blonde that is coming back on trend.<br />

To me I feel that the cool ashes and heavily<br />

toned blondes are facing out now, and<br />

clients are wanting to move towards more<br />

brighter and fresh blondes again. The new<br />

Barbie movie is a big inspiration and<br />

nostalgic for me. All I wanted when I was<br />

younger was long, golden blonde hair<br />

reflecting in the sunlight. These brighter,<br />

warmer tones of blonde are everything I<br />

love about a blonde – eye-catching, luscious<br />

and conditioned.” Ria Kulik (UK)<br />

Hair: Helen Stilwell, Millee Rowlson, Amelia Krasinski, Laura Howland / Photo:<br />

Deborah Selwood / Make-up: Cristina Lazzarotto<br />

◆<br />

▲<br />

◆ GO FOR GOLD!. This beautiful combination<br />

of layered freehand blonde highlights<br />

and gorgeous deep textured curls is a<br />

winner in every respect. For the team at<br />

KH Hair in Arnold, Nottinghamshire, it<br />

scooped them the top prize of Image of<br />

the Year at the group’s annual celebration<br />

evening in which they all showcased their<br />

individual and team achievements over<br />

the past 12 months. KH Hair (UK)<br />

● CAPTIVATING INFINITY .“This captivating<br />

multi-shade blonde-on-blonde look is from<br />

Infinity, my new hair collection that combines<br />

contemporaneity and classicism. The looks<br />

have been simply created by adapting the<br />

past and the future, using very intricate<br />

techniques that can be repeated over and<br />

over. Defining style and modernism, the<br />

hair becomes three-dimensional by<br />

creating layers of multi-texture merged<br />

with multi-coloured looks. Simple, yet<br />

eye-catching. A sign for the future of the<br />

youth of today.” Angelo Seminara (UK)


●<br />

Hair Concept and Creation: Angelo Seminara / Photo: Trevor Leighton / Make up: Laura Dominique<br />

13E


hairdirection<br />

Artistic Director & Concept: Luigi Martini / Photo: Mauro Mancioppi / Hair Concept: Luigi Martini & International Creative Team / Creative Team: Andrea Galvagno, Mayla Fabbriciani, Giovanni Napolitano, Marco Orazi, Alicia Lanzi / Fashion Stylist: Luca Termine / Makeup Artist: Raffaella Tabanelli / Concept Graphics: Andrea Guerrieri<br />


● COMPLEMENTARY ELEMENTS. This is<br />

the whole package. Subtle yet stunning.<br />

We all know that yellow and purple are<br />

complements, but this blonde and lilac<br />

combo take it to another level. The cool<br />

shimmer on this side-parted, mid-length<br />

bob for a go-anywhere-do-anything<br />

look. The deep part and sweeping bangs<br />

update the straight-laced classic and opt<br />

for an edgier and more contemporary flair.<br />

Luigi Martini & the Lisap International<br />

Creative Team, <strong>USA</strong>/Italy<br />

■<br />

Wella’s Signature Artists, Signature Blondes<br />

■ TUTTI FRUTTI. Summer is all about<br />

going bright blonde, but it takes the<br />

right product and knowledge to achieve<br />

the perfect blonde look. If bright blonde<br />

isn’t really your bag, why not add a<br />

touch of summery fruit to your blonde<br />

– like strawberry, peach, or mango – to<br />

keep it looking fresh? Wella’s Signature<br />

Artists, Signature Blondes, <strong>USA</strong><br />

▲ NAKED UTOPIA. “To create this look<br />

I blow dried it with a medium strength<br />

mousse to create some volume. Once<br />

dried I used medium barrel tongs then<br />

pin curled it and left to cool. The curls<br />

were brushed out with a soft brush - om<br />

within and there is peace and harmony.”<br />

Melanie Tudor, UK<br />

◆ WARM SUMMER SANDS. Nowadays<br />

even someone with a naturally dark<br />

base can fulfill their dreams and go<br />

blond. This color correction went<br />

without a hitch to result in this<br />

unique sandy, beige blond is the<br />

perfect balance of warm and cool<br />

tones for a chic blunt bob.<br />

Linh Phan@BESCENE & Jax<br />

Hovorka@FULLMETALJAXON,<br />

for Schwarzkopf Professional<br />

Hair & Creative Direction: Melanie Tudor, En Route / Photo: Micheal Young<br />

/ Make up: Maddie Austin / Clothes Styling: Clare Frith<br />

◆<br />

▲<br />

Hair: Linh Phan@BESCENE & Jax Hovorka@ FULLMETALJAXSON for Schwarzkopf Professional<br />

15E


hairinspiration<br />

JC Penny Salon<br />

PICTURE<br />

PERFECT!<br />

E16


THE ABS GLOBAL IMAGE AWARDS<br />

CELEBRATE PASSION AND ARTISTRY BY<br />

BRINGING INTERNATIONAL HAIRDRESSING<br />

TALENTS TO THE FOREFRONT.<br />

Greta Coston<br />

Who among us doesn’t love seeing the<br />

incredible images created by hairdressers,<br />

colorists, and stylists of extraordinary<br />

talent for photo competitions. The<br />

surprising spectrum of the colors, the<br />

precision of the cuts, the geometrics of the<br />

compositions. And that’s just from a<br />

technical viewpoint!<br />

Because we are also getting a glimpse of<br />

what’s to come in terms of fashion trends.<br />

Celebs walking the red carpet or the<br />

youths looking fly on the streets. There<br />

are even versatile looks that work both in<br />

the office and can be switched up in a<br />

flash for a night out on the town.<br />

And, very simply, the Global Image<br />

Awards at America’s Beauty Show bring<br />

hairdressing talent on an international<br />

level to the forefront. These awards were<br />

instituted to celebrate the passion and<br />

artistry of professional and emerging<br />

stylists in an image and video<br />

competition featuring professional and<br />

student categories.<br />

Not surprisingly, this year’s competition<br />

skyrocketed in popularity with<br />

participants from all across the globe. As<br />

always, all the entries reflected the stylists’<br />

fiercest creative collections. Although this<br />

competition is still emerging, further<br />

growth and development are certain in<br />

the future. Mostly because the Global<br />

Image Awards also stand out from among<br />

many others because they encourage<br />

stylists and makeup artists of all levels to<br />

participate within a community of artists.<br />

In spite of it being exclusive to America’s<br />

Beauty Show, the ABS Global Image<br />

Awards is the one-to-watch for years to<br />

come.<br />

Participants can choose to test their<br />

mettle in a variety of categories, including:<br />

Haircutting, Creative Color, Total<br />

Transformation, Barbering, Texture<br />

Expert, Full Concept, Nail Design, and<br />

Makeup-Avant Garde. The challenge is<br />

irresistible. Start making your plans to<br />

participate in next year’s competition<br />

today! The future of hairdressing awaits!<br />

Braiden Pelletier<br />

Noemi Capetillo<br />

more<br />

Scan the QR Code to browse galleries of all the winners at Estetica <strong>Magazine</strong> online<br />

more<br />

17E


hair Best of <strong>USA</strong><br />

Hair: Mego Ayvazian, Patrick Kalle, Wesley Palmer, Joshua Bernard, Sarah Harris, and assistance from Lorena Guevara / Photo: Mohammed Ghanayem / Make-up: Jannette Marin and Ashley Reyna / Styling: Alexandra Cohen<br />

SOUPÇON<br />

OF STYLE<br />

E18


TOMBER EN CASCADE<br />

Just the right volume &<br />

natural textures add up<br />

to the utmost elegance.<br />

Color enhances the<br />

contours, bringing the<br />

look to life for<br />

a fresh perspective<br />

on elegance.<br />

19E


hair Best of <strong>USA</strong><br />

Artistic Director & Concept: Luigi Martini Photo: Mauro Mancioppi / Hair Concept: Luigi Martini & International Creative Team / Creative Team: Andrea Galvagno, Mayla Fabbriciani, Giovanni Napolitano, Marco Orazi, Alicia Lanzi / Styling: Luca Termine Makeup Artist: Raffaella Tabanelli<br />

E20


LA VIE EN ROSE...<br />

et Rouge! Any way you look at it,<br />

you’re in style! Long & blond or<br />

mid-length auburn curls.<br />

Living the good life in style.<br />

for when you want to paint the<br />

town red!<br />

21E


hair Best of <strong>USA</strong><br />

RÉBELLION<br />

Disruptors of change and<br />

rebels against status quo.<br />

Avant-garde is en vogue,<br />

with contemporary colors<br />

and cuts.<br />

Schwarzkopf Professional Educator / Hair: Genia Church (@GeniaChurch) / Photo: Damien Carney (@DamienCarneyProfessional) / Styling: Nikko Kefalas (@NikkoKefalas)Make-up Artist: Joanne Gair (@JoanneGair)<br />

E22


Scan here to see more<br />

of the Best of <strong>USA</strong><br />

video<br />

video<br />

23E


CREATE THE PERFECT PAGE BOY<br />

DENMAN<br />

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Your page boy tools of choice are the D143 Long Handle Styler 5 Row, D3 Original Styler 7<br />

Row - Shape, Smooth and Bend, D300 Curling Vent - Control and Bend, D75 Thermoceramic<br />

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Sign-up for your Denman Trade Account for 20% off RRP<br />

www.denmanbrush.com<br />

@denmanpro


COLOUR<br />

>>><br />

FRENZY<br />

A total spectrum for hair, without exception<br />

Colori a tutto spettro, senza eccezioni<br />

Toutes les couleurs du spectre, sans exception<br />

Absolute Haarvielfalt, ohne Ausnahme<br />

Los colores de todo el espectro, sin excepciones<br />

SYMPHONY


hairtrends<br />

C


HAIR COLOUR knows no boundaries. It’s a medium<br />

through which creativity can explore new extremes thanks to skill,<br />

innovation and technical expertise. So let your imagination run riot<br />

and be inspired by our international collections. Allow yourself<br />

to be amazed by chromatic sensations without limits!<br />

HAIR COLOUR senza confini. Abilità, innovazione<br />

e tecnica eplorano nuovi territori. Lasciati ispirare e affascinare<br />

da sensazioni cromatiche senza limiti!<br />

HAIR COLOUR. Le moyen par lequel la créativité peut<br />

explorer de nouveaux territoires. Habilité, innovation, technique.<br />

Déchaîne ton imagination en t’inspirant des collections<br />

internationales. Laisse-toi surprendre par des tonalités sans limites.<br />

LOUR FRENZY<br />

HAARFARBE kennt keine Grenzen. Sie ist ein Medium<br />

durch die Kreativität dank Können, Innovation und Technik zu<br />

neuen Höhen gelangt, Lassen Sie Ihrer Fantasie freien Lauf und<br />

sich von unseren internationalen Looks inspirieren. Überraschende<br />

Farbsensationen ohne Limit!<br />

EL COLOR DEL CABELLO no conoce fronteras. Es un<br />

medio a través del cual la creatividad puede explorar nuevos extremos<br />

gracias a la habilidad, innovación y experiencia técnica. Deja volar<br />

tu imaginación e inspírate con nuestras colecciones internacionales.<br />

¡Déjate sorprender por sensaciones cromáticas ilimitadas!<br />

Hair: Antoinette Beenders & X-presion for Aveda<br />

Photo: Miguel Reveriego<br />

Make-up: Lolita Makeup<br />

Styling: Belén Antolín


hairtrends<br />

Hair: Mark Van Westerop @<br />

Pro-Solo Hair Artist<br />

Photo: Studio IvodeKok<br />

Make-up: Angelique Stapelbroek<br />

Styling: Ed Noijons


Hair: Sarah Pavlovski<br />

Photo: Stephan Deneuvelaere<br />

Make-up: Pauline Hauck


hairtrends<br />

more<br />

Hair: Rudy Mostarda,<br />

Global Creative Director<br />

Alfaparf Milano Professional<br />

Photo: Stratis Kas<br />

Make-up: Maurizio Calabro<br />

Production: Extrema Hair by Rudy Mostarda<br />

more<br />

RUDY MOSTARDA


Hair: E. Thorsen, T. Dahlen, S. Lund<br />

Hernes, N. Beckfor @ Adam og Eva<br />

Photo: I. Fiskaa<br />

Make-up: S. S.Pedersen<br />

Styling: M. Fuhre


hairtrends<br />

Hair: Steven Smart @ Smartest73<br />

Photo: Jamie Blanshard<br />

Make-up: Debra Smart<br />

Styling: Ginger Ninjas


Art Direction: Giorgio Parrivecchio<br />

Hair: Team James<br />

Photo: Letizia Toscano<br />

Make-up: Valerio Nobili<br />

Styling: Federica Reali<br />

Products: Wella Professionals


hairtrends<br />

Hair: E. González &<br />

J. Salvador @ Makeover<br />

Photo: David Arnal<br />

Make-up: Eva Quílez<br />

Styling: Mikoto


Hair: Kathy Simon @<br />

Mekka Academy & Studio<br />

Colour: K. Lusignana & V. Boily<br />

Photo: Camille Tellier<br />

Make-up : Léonie Levesque


hairtrends<br />

video<br />

< ><br />

Creative Direction: Jerry Del Duca &<br />

Marco Lamberti @ Zoih Team<br />

Colour Direction: Gina Rossi<br />

Photo: Simone Golfieri<br />

video<br />

ZOIH TEAM


hairtrends<br />

Hair: Mikelah-Jayde Riley<br />

Photo: Meiji Nguyen<br />

Make-up: Nadia Duca<br />

Styling: Juvelle Behrendorff<br />

Products: Joico


Set your colour creativity aflame!<br />

Accendi la tua creatività cromatica!<br />

Enflamme ta créativité chromatique !<br />

Entfachen Sie Ihre Farbkreativität!<br />

¡Enciende tu creatividad cromática!


hairtrends<br />

RETROFUTURA COLLECTION<br />

A colour melt can be subtle, dreamy and totally on-trend,<br />

when the main protagonists are... pastels!<br />

Una miscellanea di colori può essere raffinata,<br />

sognante e totalmente di tendenza,<br />

quando i protagonisti sono... i pastelli!<br />

Un mixte de couleurs peut devenir raffiné,<br />

onirique ou bien totalement tendance. Surtout quand<br />

ce sont les pastels qui entrent en jeu !<br />

Ein Colour Melt kann subtil, verträumt und absolut im Trend<br />

sein, wenn die Hauptdarsteller ... Pastelltöne sind!<br />

Una miscelanea de color puede ser sutil,<br />

soñadora y totalmente trendy, cuando los grandes<br />

protagonistas son... ¡los tonos pastel!<br />

Hair: Genny D’Auria, Artistic Director Farmaca International<br />

Products: Farmaca International<br />

video<br />

video<br />

GENNY D’AURIA


GENNY D’AURIA


hairtrends<br />

Hair: Denise Meikle @ Salon Origins<br />

Photo: Joan Novak<br />

Make-up: Vanessa Pollit


Hair, Photo, Make-up & Styling:<br />

Experimento No Name


hairtrends<br />

Hair: Dee Parker Attwood @<br />

Wieselmann<br />

Colour: Dee Parker Attwood<br />

& Casey Ryman<br />

Photo: Andrew O’Toole<br />

Make-Up: Kylie O’Toole


Hair & Styling: Anna Barroca<br />

Photo: David Arnal<br />

Make-up: Anna González<br />

Products: Montibello


hairtrends<br />

Creative Direction, Hair & Colour: X-presion<br />

Color Direction: Adoracion Ruiz @ Aveda<br />

Make-up: David Lopez<br />

Photo: Javier Marquez


Hair: Christos Michailidis @<br />

Love Is In The Hair<br />

Make-up: Nee Make Up Milano<br />

Styling: Kiriaki Pavlidou


hairtrends<br />

The ice maiden goes uber rock ‘n’ roll!<br />

La fanciulla di ghiaccio si fa rock ‘n’roll!<br />

La jeune fille de glace devient rock n’ roll<br />

Eisprinzessin geht über Rock ‘n’ Roll!<br />

¡Ice Maiden se vuelve súper rock ‘n’roll!


Hair: Italian Style Framesi<br />

Photo: Karel Losenicky<br />

Make-up: Silvia Dell’Orto


hairtrends<br />

Hair: Team Identity @<br />

Intercoiffure Italia<br />

Photo: Massimiliano Boni


Hair: Matteo Susini @ Nook<br />

Colour: Carla Risso<br />

Photo: Shkerlzen Kohnxeli<br />

Make-up: Rossano Fasano<br />

Styling: Erika Guerrisi


hairtrends<br />

Hair: Gianluca Sasso<br />

& Academy F Team @<br />

Revlon Professional


Hair: Lesley Jennison,<br />

Schwarzkopf Professional Global Ambassador<br />

Nick Irwin, Schwarzkopf Professional<br />

Styling Ambassador


hairtrends


FUTURE LOVERS<br />

COLLECTION<br />

Accessorise in soft shades of violet, lilac and mauve...<br />

oh, and don’t forget the hair as well!<br />

Accessori in morbidi toni viola, lilla e malva...<br />

… senza dimenticare i capelli!<br />

Accessoires en tonalités violet, lilas ou mauve…<br />

…sans oublier les cheveux.<br />

Accessoires in sanften Violett-, Flieder- und Malvetönen...<br />

oh, und bitte auch ans Haar denken!<br />

Accesorios en suaves tonos morados,<br />

lila y malva... ¡Sin olvidar el cabello!<br />

Art Direction: Federico Patelli @ Philip Martin’s<br />

Make-up: Markus Theisen<br />

Products: Babyliss Pro Italia<br />

video<br />

video<br />

FEDERICO PATELLI


hairtrends<br />

Hair: Roar Hair and Beauty Team<br />

Photo: Richard Miles<br />

Make-up: Lauren Mathis


Hair: Shogo Ideguchi<br />

Photo: John Rawson<br />

Make-up: Faye Campbell


hairtrends<br />

Hair: Christian Ríos<br />

Photo: Esteban Roca


Hair: Pauline McCabe @<br />

Rock Paper Scissors<br />

Photo: Andrew O’Toole<br />

Make-up: Hendra Widjaja<br />

Styling: Rochelle Renwick


hairtrends<br />

Hair: Fabian Fuentes<br />

Colour: Jack Horton<br />

Photo: Anniss + Barton<br />

Make-up: Fiona Willard<br />

Styling: J. Djorwitch<br />

& S. Bosakova


video<br />

Art Direction: Christophe Gaillet @<br />

HCF Creative Team<br />

Photo: Maciej Swistek<br />

Make-up: Martyna Molenda<br />

Products: L’Oréal Professionnel,<br />

Revlon Professional<br />

video<br />

HAUTE COIFFURE FRANÇAISE


hairtrends<br />

Hair: Antoinette Beenders<br />

& X-presion for Aveda<br />

Photo: Miguel Reveriego<br />

Make-up: Lolita Makeup<br />

Styling: Belén Antolín


Let your hair express that inner diva<br />

I capelli trasformano la donna in diva<br />

Ses cheveux révèlent la diva qui est en elle<br />

Bringen Sie die innere Diva zum Ausdruck<br />

Deja que tu cabello exprese esa diva interior<br />

video<br />

video


hairtrends<br />

< ><br />

Hair J. and N. Fisher @<br />

Palmer Fisher London<br />

Photo: Chris Bulezuik<br />

Make-up: Alice Snell


hairtrends


ERIC ZEMMOUR<br />

ATTITUDES COLLECTION<br />

Unruly, translucent tousles create captivating contrasts<br />

of colour and texture.<br />

Chiome in movimento, indomabili e traslucide creano<br />

contrasti accattivanti di colore e texture.<br />

Chevelures en mouvement, indomptables et tout en<br />

lumière, pour des contrastes de couleurs et de textures.<br />

Wilde, transluzente Strähnen setzen fesselnde Kontraste<br />

aus Farbe und Textur.<br />

Cabellos en movimiento, translúcidos y rebeldes crean<br />

contrastes cautivadores de color y textura.<br />

Hair: Eric Zemmour, Coiffeur Ambassadeur L’Oréal Professionnel<br />

Photo: Stéphane Gagnard<br />

Make-up: Laurie Feligioni<br />

Styling: Your’s Monaco<br />

Products: L’Oréal Professionnel,<br />

Babyliss Pro & Mizutani Scissors<br />

video<br />

video<br />

ERIC ZEMMOUR


hairtrends<br />

< ><br />

Hair & Styling: Anne Veck<br />

Photo: Desmond Murray<br />

Make-up: Scarlet Cedano


hairtrends<br />

< ><br />

Art Direction & Hair: Danny Pato<br />

Photo: Mara Sommer<br />

Make-up: Kiekie Stanners<br />

Special FX Make-up: Luana Millar<br />

Styling: Danny Pato & Rachel Morton<br />

Products: Davines


hairtrends<br />

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video


<strong>USA</strong> EDITION<br />

From print to interactive,<br />

digital multimedia.<br />

<strong>ESTETICA</strong> HAIR:<br />

so much more than<br />

a magazine.<br />

€14,50<br />

4 ISSUES<br />

in digital format,<br />

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€59,00 5 MAGAZINES + 5 ISSUES<br />

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EACH ISSUE WITH OVER 100 PAGES,<br />

PLUS VIDEOS AND ADDITIONAL<br />

INTERACTIVE CONTENT<br />

For information and subscriptions contact: Email: customercare@estetica.it - www.esteticamagazine.com


prospecial color<br />

ARTISTIC<br />

ALTERNATIVES<br />

Marie Scarano<br />

Never before has the hair color market been so diversified. Estetica<br />

asked the experts about the latest trends and techniques.<br />

“IT’S ALWAYS BEST TO START AT THE<br />

BEGINNING”<br />

This is the advice Glenda, the Good Witch of the North,<br />

gives to Dorothy as she sets out on her journey through<br />

a land of extraordinary colors. And it’s the initial advice<br />

our experts offer: the consultation! Marilyn Vendittelli,<br />

co-owner of INdustry Hair and Esthetics Salon in Ontario,<br />

Canada, recommends, “The consultation is the most<br />

important part of the service! It’s where you communicate,<br />

you listen and you build trust! Hear what the client is<br />

saying…listen to her thoughts and ideas before giving<br />

your thoughts and ideas. Be real! Don’t over promise<br />

and remember it’s OK to say ‘no’, or ‘in time we can<br />

make this happen’ or even ‘you can’t have this because it<br />

will compromise your hair’.”<br />

Michael Haase, owner of PlatinumBlack Salon in Los<br />

Angeles, adds,“Taking the time to read the hair properly<br />

for tone is something you share with your client so she can<br />

understand your ability to make her hair look even better than<br />

it already does. Your expertise in seeing tonal value is key.”<br />

Wella Professionals<br />

E74


“Bronde has a<br />

universal appeal<br />

since it sits right in<br />

the middle of the hair<br />

color spectrum!”<br />

George Papanikolas,<br />

Matrix Celebrity Stylist<br />

Lisap<br />

75E


prospecial color<br />

BETTER BLONDING<br />

Time was, there was a range of ashes, baby, and platinum<br />

and not much more. Now blonde has become the colorist’s<br />

playground. “The variety is fantastic, especially on the same<br />

head! Monotone in any color to me is boring. All my clients get<br />

a custom color, perhaps a base, highs, lows and multi tone.<br />

Once the whole look is created it’s a beautiful head of hair,”<br />

says Haase. “Blondes come in so many tones and variations:<br />

highlights or full colors or both! It can be fun to change the<br />

tone after your highlights/colour is done by simply adding a<br />

toner (same level of colour or darker) to change the intensity /<br />

tonality or to add a little more depth!” observes Vendittelli.<br />

How to find the right blonde for you? Clairol Professional<br />

Shimmer Lights Ambassador Christine Symonds recommends<br />

looking at your vein color. “If your veins are more blue/green,<br />

then you’re warm tone. If your veins are more purple/blue, then<br />

you’re probably cool tone. If your veins appear undistinguishable,<br />

then you most likely have a neutral undertone,” she says.<br />

More good news is that nearly anyone can enjoy some<br />

shade of blonde thanks to product innovations. Josie Vilay<br />

(@josievilay), Schwarzkopf Professional <strong>USA</strong> Digital Artistic<br />

Team Member, comments, “What I love about the<br />

Schwarzkopt BLONDME light range is that you can achieve<br />

any shade of blonde your guest desires! The BLONDME light<br />

range isn’t just for bright blonde but also amazing for darker<br />

levels, to achieve rich creamy caramel warm tones.”<br />

Kamie Crawford, model, TV Host and former Miss Teen <strong>USA</strong>,<br />

known for her blonde highlights shares, “I love the Wella<br />

Professionals Blondor Multi-Blonde Lightening Powder<br />

as it gives me controlled and reliable lightening and the<br />

results are perfect every time.”<br />

“Bright colours are great as<br />

they have the intensity at<br />

first, then usually fade to<br />

pastel! – Marilyn Vendittelli<br />

a lot of work and time. In my salon our prices begin at<br />

$300.00 for creative color.” Instead, if a client needs to bolster<br />

their courage before taking a bungee jump into a complex<br />

professional color service, he or she can always take a quick<br />

trip to Oz thanks to Wella colorcharm PAINTS Semi-<br />

Permanent Hair Color. WIth 20 bright shades of intermixable<br />

colors inclusive of COLORINVENT Technology to choose<br />

from, these colors are easy to use straight from the tube<br />

whenever inspiration hits. Then we should talk about color<br />

care and making the most of your color service until your<br />

next appointment... but that will be for another time!<br />

Paul Mitchell<br />

B&W OR TECHNICOLOR?<br />

Vendittelli also observes, “Since Covid-19... Grey hair has<br />

made a comeback! So many people have such beautiful<br />

grey and with the right products in the salon and at home<br />

it can radiate just like coloured hair!” Her go-to product<br />

is Goldwell Conditioning Toners, as they not only help<br />

tone away yellow but also help to condition the hair!<br />

When it comes to mermaid pastels or brighter colors and<br />

playing with color blocking and designs, Michael Haase makes<br />

and observation that must not go unheeded. “In most cases<br />

the pastels and what we might call mermaid colors take<br />

E76


PRAVANA’s Digital<br />

Purple Palette: three new<br />

cooler tone purple shades<br />

from the ChromaSilk<br />

VIVIDS collection for<br />

hair levels 8+.<br />

Pravana<br />

77E


prointerview<br />

IN EXCLUSIVE:<br />

ANGUS<br />

MITCHELL<br />

Gary Kelly<br />

This May, Team Estetica<br />

caught up with Angus<br />

Mitchell (right), Co-Owner<br />

of John Paul Mitchell<br />

Systems, at the<br />

brand’s Together event<br />

in Rome, Italy.<br />

At John Paul Michell Systems’ recent<br />

Together event in the Italian capital,<br />

we were delighted to have the<br />

opportunity to talk to Co-Owner, Angus<br />

Mitchell, about the brand’s current<br />

strategies, its future plans and its take<br />

on some pivotal issues impacting our<br />

industry, including technology, education<br />

and, of course, the big talking-point of<br />

the moment, sustainability.<br />

The world is an unpredictable place<br />

at the moment. As a company, what<br />

is Paul Mitchell doing to reduce the<br />

impact of these uncertainties?<br />

Our commitment to the industry is<br />

unwavering. JP entered JPMS in a trust<br />

to ensure we stay privately held and we<br />

have over 300 more years left! As a<br />

family-owned privately held company, we<br />

can make quick decisions in support of<br />

our industry while staying true to who we<br />

are. We believe in investing in our people<br />

first and encourage an immersive focused<br />

on positive communication, healthrelated<br />

frame works, self-love, and<br />

respect for differing perspectives.<br />

E78


The ‘Together’ event by JPMS<br />

held in Rome, Italy in May <strong>2023</strong>.<br />

What are your main goals for <strong>2023</strong><br />

and in the longer term?<br />

Global travel and connecting with our<br />

people in-person are my top goals for<br />

<strong>2023</strong> and the years to come. I am so<br />

happy to be travelling again. I missed<br />

inspiring and being inspired by others and<br />

being able to embrace our people again.<br />

When we can meet and learn from one<br />

another, we are all that much stronger<br />

together. We have slowed down on the<br />

large hair shows and are instead<br />

focussing more on intimate gatherings.<br />

So far this year, and I have visited Italy,<br />

Mexico, Spain, and France. My overwhelming<br />

feeling is that there is a hunger<br />

for more connectivity, as well as more<br />

love and joy of the JPMS culture and a<br />

stronger connection to the philanthropic<br />

commitments of our company.<br />

Tell us about any new product<br />

launches and plans to develop the<br />

brand.<br />

We have a very full calendar of exciting<br />

launches for <strong>2023</strong>. The year kicked off<br />

with the Tea Tree Special Detox category,<br />

which addresses scalp problems. We<br />

have seen the scalp care market grow<br />

with an increasing focus on taking care of<br />

the skin on your head in the same way<br />

you would your face or body. This was off<br />

the back of a new Scalp Care category in<br />

our Clean Beauty brand at the end of<br />

2022. Also this year, we have exciting<br />

new developments in our color portfolio,<br />

with a ten minute color to cater for the<br />

busy lifestyles, as well as a new color<br />

brand which we’re certain will satisfy<br />

even the most adventurous stylists.<br />

Furthermore, we have exciting new<br />

developments for our Awapuhi Wild<br />

Ginger brand coming this summer.<br />

Paul Mitchell has become<br />

synonymous with sustainability and<br />

caring for people and the planet.<br />

What advice can you give to help<br />

reduce our industry’s negative effect<br />

on the environment?<br />

Just by working with John Paul Mitchell<br />

Systems brands you are helping to care<br />

for the planet. We continue to decrease<br />

our use of virgin plastic by transitioning<br />

to PCR (Post Consumer Recycled)<br />

packaging and have introduced refill<br />

pouches. We also have a new tool<br />

recycling program in the US with<br />

Homeboy Electronics Recycling. As a<br />

company we are focusing our efforts<br />

around four key pillars; reduce virgin<br />

plastic, reduce carbon footprint,<br />

sustainable and responsible sourcing and<br />

minimize waste to landfill. Within each of<br />

these pillars there are many projects and<br />

goals we are working on – as a company<br />

built on the philosophy of regenerative<br />

roots, we are truly proud of where we<br />

have come from, how much we have<br />

achieved and where we will get to in the<br />

coming years.<br />

Scan the QR Code to<br />

READ OUR FULL AND<br />

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW<br />

with Angus Mitchell:<br />

more<br />

more<br />

79E


prohair care<br />

EXPOSOME?<br />

Safe in the sun!<br />

Glorianna Vaschetto<br />

Year-round sun protection, under the sun or under the clouds.<br />

Exposome explains the importance of lifestyle...<br />

The culture of wellness has gotten us used to<br />

fighting the aging of our skin with vehemence.<br />

Especially during the summer with sun screens.<br />

Hair instead is difficult to protect, often neglected,<br />

or protected only now and then, with the excuse of<br />

“later I’ll get a trim to strengthen it”. However, this<br />

is all much more complex that it appears because<br />

hair should be protected year round. Estetica’s<br />

Glorianna Vaschetto asked Dr. Maria Teresa<br />

Rigione, Cosmetic and Trichological Pharmacist,<br />

Naturopath, and Relational Systemic Counselor<br />

specialized in Esthetic Psychology to explain why.<br />

“UV rays are part of the electromagnetic radiation coming<br />

from the sun. They can be divided into UVC, UVB, and UVA.<br />

They are fundamental for the correct functioning of the<br />

organism, but can also cause damage. There are also other<br />

Maria Teresa also<br />

writes her own blog<br />

on hair health<br />

E80


types of rays, like infrared, IR, which are responsible for the<br />

heat effect, so thermal damage to the hair structure, and Blue<br />

rays. The latter, associated with the emissions of electronic<br />

devices like smartphones, PCs, and tablets, are responsible<br />

for the photo-aging of the skin and hair, because they penetrate<br />

and are capable of generating notorious free radicals. UVB<br />

ray - continues Dr. Rigione - are responsible for the synthesis<br />

of melanin, our internal sun filter, but also immediate<br />

reactions like burns and erythema and on hair they have the<br />

power to degrade the protein that makes them up: keratin.<br />

UVB radiation oxidizes some of the substances that make up<br />

hair fibers, breaking the bonds that hold the fibers together.<br />

UVA rays are shorter, but are nonetheless damaging, because<br />

they are more penetrating. In adequate doses they induce the<br />

synthesis of melanin, however on hair they are responsible for<br />

its oxidizing degradation, and even for the appealing optical<br />

effect of lightening. UVB and UVA together, with unbridled<br />

exposure, act on hair by disassembling the amino acid that<br />

constitutes the framework of the hair, cystine. Once this<br />

structure is lost, the damage is done!<br />

Exposomics is a new way to study relations between<br />

the environment and health? How is hair involved?<br />

Not only UVR cause damage to our hair and skin, but an entire<br />

series of environmental factors to which we are exposed from<br />

birth (and even since our conception) do not depend on our<br />

genetics, but on the lifestyle that we are, voluntarily or<br />

involuntarily, exposed to. This series of factors is referred to<br />

as “exposomic” (literally “exposure” of the body), like those<br />

represented by: solar radiation, environmental pollution,<br />

tobacco smoke, inadequate nutrition, temperature, stress, lack<br />

of sleep. However, a series of significant factors that have not<br />

yet been adequately studied should not be neglected, like the<br />

quality of the cosmetics used over our lifetime. In the case of<br />

hair exposome, multiple factors combine, like smog, home<br />

81E


prohair care<br />

Photo: Drobot Dean/stock.adobe.com<br />

pollution, shampoo with overly aggressive surfactants or<br />

overly-alkaline pH, heat stress from styling tools, and chemical<br />

stress from repeated bleaching, permanents, straightening,<br />

algicide, and swimming pool chlorine.<br />

Why does hair lighten in the sun?<br />

Lightening is the result of the UV rays on the hair’s amino<br />

acids, on the melanin but even on the lipids, which make up<br />

the cuticle, and this change is irreversible. In blond hair the<br />

effect is highly visible and this is due to the fact that our<br />

natural sun filter is melanin, the natural pigment that all hair<br />

is made of. We have three types of melanin: pheomelanin in<br />

blond hair, eumelanin in dark hair, trichosiderin in red hair.<br />

Each one undergoes a certain degree of lightening in the sun.<br />

White hair is another matter, as it has lost its melanin and is<br />

made up of keratin.<br />

Keratin is degraded by UVR rays that find plenty of cystine to<br />

consume and will produce an even more devastating effect in<br />

the hair structure. It will cause it to yellow due to the increase<br />

of sulfur deriving from the oxidizing itself. If we then add the<br />

dehydrating effect of sea salt, lime, or the oxidizing effect of<br />

swimming pool chlorine, we can easily imagine how stressed<br />

our hair is when we get back from vacation.<br />

What are the main innovations in sun protection<br />

formulations for hair?<br />

The main problem of the products formulated with hair sun<br />

screens, that are not all that different from those for our skin.<br />

The difference lies in the application. The best technique to<br />

transmit a sun filter for hair is the mask, for which a processing<br />

time of between 15 and 30 minute allows a deeper<br />

penetration of the sun filter. This becomes even more<br />

effective if this product is massaged carefully and delicately<br />

through the cuticle. To respond to this need, the true innovation<br />

lies in the nano-emulsion formulations.<br />

Photo: kokliang1981/stock.adobe.com<br />

E82


THE MAIN ENEMIES OF OUR HAIR<br />

Salt dehydrates the skin and precipitates on<br />

the hair shaft, hardening it.<br />

Chlorine can bond with the keratin and<br />

damage it. Furthermore it can alter the<br />

natural melanins and pigments in the hair.<br />

Algicides can lead to uncontrolled<br />

chemical reactions (for example, the toning<br />

of color), above all on those with light and<br />

bleached hair.<br />

Smog and particulates. These deposit on<br />

the hair shaft and can cause the break-up of<br />

chemical bonds with fragility, cutaneous<br />

intoxication and loss of shine<br />

Solar radiation increase the quantity of<br />

free radicals circulating and photo-oxidizing<br />

reactions. This determines the alteration of<br />

the melanin, the breaking of chemical bonds<br />

at the level of the shaft and a loss of<br />

brilliance.<br />

Tobacco smoke. The chemical components<br />

of combustion generate free radicals that<br />

contribute to premature hair loss due to the<br />

overall inflammation of the body, but also of<br />

the skin. Moreover, nicotine is a powerful<br />

vasoconstrictor that reduces the arrival of<br />

blood, and therefore nutrients, to the hair.<br />

Stress determines the increase of the<br />

immune response that also causes the<br />

inflammation of the skin and hair, with the<br />

reduction of the energy supply (less<br />

glycolysis) to the hair bulb that enters into a<br />

premature telogen phase to protect itself<br />

from inadequate nutrition.<br />

Inadequate cosmetics. The use of overly<br />

aggressive surfactants with a pH that is too<br />

alkaline deprives the scalp and hair of their<br />

naturally protective lipidic content<br />

Aggressive decoloration accelerates all<br />

the processes that impoverish hair, exposing<br />

the cuticle and the cortex to lipid loss<br />

Even in small doses, the damage of<br />

esposome on hair causes structural<br />

modifications, even without intervening<br />

on S-S bridges, weakening them, above<br />

all in combination with fine<br />

particulates. Decolored hair is also<br />

much more sensitive to these reactions<br />

to the degradation of the keratin. This is<br />

why, for a true prevention, it is important<br />

to consider all the factors that<br />

contribute to the well-being of the<br />

scalp and hair, and in general, of our<br />

health.<br />

A recent study carried out at the galenical and cosmetics<br />

laboratory of the Universitè Aix-Marseille, suggests that a<br />

nano-particle type of formulation can increase protection<br />

from the sun for some organic filters. In this way it is possible<br />

to reduce the quantity of the filter used to obtain a specific<br />

SPF, while maintaining its effectiveness.<br />

We can opt for pre -or post -sun exposure products strictly<br />

formulated with classic filters (like benzophenone, phenylbenzimidazole<br />

sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydiben- zoylmethane,<br />

octyl dimethyl para-aminobenzoic acid PABA) which<br />

protect our hair from excessive oxidation from sunshine, or<br />

choosing one of these with an oil base with a high content of<br />

linoleic acid. This unsaturated fatty acid is capable of forming<br />

a protective spiral on the shaft (polymerization) and integrate<br />

the external lipidic protection of the cuticle.<br />

Learn more about products<br />

that can help you pamper<br />

your hair here!<br />

more<br />

more<br />

83E


probrands<br />

When it comes to color,<br />

pros need to keep up with<br />

all the latest innovations<br />

to achieve the precise results<br />

that you envisioned.<br />

1. LISAP<br />

Lisap offers a complete range of<br />

professional color products, like<br />

Lisaplex Xtreme – Direct Color<br />

and Lisaplex Filter Color. Find<br />

out more at www.shoplisap.com.<br />

6. SCHWARZKOPF<br />

tbh – true beautiful honest – is the brand’s<br />

first multidimensional permanent hair color<br />

that creates authentic looking shimmering<br />

powder tones. Authenticity is more than a<br />

trend – it’s a lifestyle!<br />

9. WELLA PROFESSIONALS<br />

Color Fresh Create ammonia-free hair<br />

color provides a complete semi-permanent<br />

expressive palette. The intermixability of<br />

12 vibrant shades and 3 additives results in<br />

tones that last up to 20 washes.<br />

2. PAUL MITCHELL<br />

The Nearly Demi Nudes new gold violet<br />

shades create soft, nude hues, from<br />

effervescent champagne to refined taupe.<br />

The collection offers 55+ standard shades,<br />

flash toners, metallics, and clear.<br />

3. SCHWARZKOPF ®<br />

Goodbye Yellow and Goodbye Orange<br />

Neutralizing Bonding Washes make it<br />

possible to neutralize yellow tones in<br />

blonde hair and unwanted orange and red<br />

undertones in darker bases while gently<br />

cleansing hair.<br />

4. SCHWARZKOPF ®<br />

BLONDEME Base Breaker allows a soft<br />

transition between pre-lightened hair and<br />

virgin re-growth, while minimizing breakage.<br />

Available in Soft Cool, Cool and Extra Cool,<br />

BLONDME Base Breaker achieves the optimal<br />

blend between virgin hair and lightened hair<br />

for illuminated, natural-looking blonde.<br />

5. WELLA PROFESSIONALS<br />

With Wella colorcharm PAINTS offer<br />

20 intermixable semi-permanent shades<br />

of creative hair color so you can express<br />

yourself like a true artist.<br />

7. PRAVANA<br />

ChromaSilk VIVIDS collection is semipermanent,<br />

non-oxidative hair color that is<br />

designed to be used without developer. The<br />

perfect hair color for your boldest looks.<br />

8. GOLDWELL<br />

The Elumen range guarantees long-lasting<br />

color while repairing hair. Now the new Key<br />

Lime formula using Elumen AB@9, GK@all,<br />

and TQ@all keeps your clients on the cutting<br />

edge of Summer <strong>2023</strong> fashions.<br />

Recommended by<br />

LG CHI COLOR MASTER<br />

FACTORY<br />

LG CHI Color Master Factory by<br />

Farouk Systems, Inc. is a color<br />

customization system designed<br />

to take in-salon hair coloring<br />

into the digital age. The is<br />

invaluable tool has a calibrated<br />

scale that is super accurate and<br />

just requires you to pick how<br />

many grams of color is needed.<br />

10. WELLA PROFESSIONALS<br />

Wella Professionals Blondor<br />

can change or adjust the tone of<br />

hair after a lightening service.<br />

See how to use it to reduce and<br />

neutralize warm tones or add<br />

the tones you want.<br />

11. MOROCCANOIL ®<br />

The new Moroccanoil Professional Haircolor<br />

Collection is a complete portfolio of permanent,<br />

demi-permanent haircolor, and lighteners<br />

featuring the brand’s proprietary ProArginine +<br />

ArganID ® System.<br />

Scan the<br />

QR Code to<br />

discover more<br />

about CHI<br />

E84


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2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7<br />

8<br />

9<br />

10<br />

11<br />

85E


proweb choice<br />

esteticamagazine.us<br />

Tips & trends from the web<br />

Take some cues from some of these stories on our<br />

esteticamagazine website! Everything you need to<br />

know – from trends, industry news, and salon<br />

managment, using the QR Codes!<br />

Marie Scarano<br />

PROFESSIONAL TIPS<br />

Back Room Blues from the<br />

Eufora business Team<br />

CHARITY<br />

City of Hope Honors<br />

Farouk Shami<br />

E86


DESIGN<br />

The New industrial style<br />

in the salon<br />

The design of your salon sends a message to<br />

your clients. And this industrial style can convey<br />

a sense of sophistication, attracting a savvy<br />

demographic of clients to your business.<br />

TRENDS<br />

Over 60 style:<br />

5 women who inspire us<br />

They’re not getting older, they’re getting better.<br />

When it comes to style, there’s no substitute<br />

for self-confidence and life experience, no matter<br />

what your age. These women prove it!<br />

@helenmirren<br />

Foto brutte e in bassa risoluzione<br />

Photo: Daisuke Shima<br />

@iris.apfel<br />

INSPIRATION<br />

Summer <strong>2023</strong> Hair Trends:<br />

the coolest looks<br />

This season’s trends include something for<br />

everyone. Something old, something new,<br />

updates of classics with nostalgic looks reviving<br />

the 90’s. Keep on the cutting edge of fashion.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

Wahl Barber Academy<br />

opening in Chicago<br />

Now there is another great place to start out on<br />

a new career or bolster an existing one with<br />

some of the absolute best in the business.<br />

Check out this great new learning opportunity!<br />

@_shanhair_<br />

@the_bob_haircut<br />

87E


proevents<br />

ABS<br />

An exciting and powerful force, the <strong>2023</strong> near the Donald E. Stephens Convention<br />

America’s Beauty Show ABS), the inperson<br />

event the entire professional were packed with happy guests.<br />

Center, home of America’s Beauty Show,<br />

beauty industry loves, hit record “The energy and excitement at the event<br />

attendance numbers with 21,000+ unique were truly inspiring, and it’s clear that the<br />

attendees, 400+ exhibiting brands, future is bright in the beauty industry when<br />

offering 300+ classes, and experiences we come together and stick together,” said<br />

including the ABS Global Image Awards Frank P. Fulco, CEO of America’s Beauty<br />

special evening event and party.<br />

Show. “Our 100th Show was the largest in<br />

FOCUS<br />

The Makeup Show co-located with ABS our history, and we couldn’t have done it<br />

and hosted makeup and skincare brands, without the support of the professional<br />

as well as in-depth education and demo beauty community. It was beautiful to see so<br />

sessions. The CIDESCO Skincare Academy many people from all corners of the industry<br />

hailed advanced esthetics education with celebrating and connecting,” said Fulco.<br />

educators from around the world.<br />

Cosmetologists Chicago, the non-profit PLANS FOR NEXT YEAR!<br />

organization that owns and produces The forthcoming event will be bigger and<br />

America’s Beauty Show, for 100 years has better than ever and, as always, the venue<br />

ON<br />

created the show licensed beauty for the Global Images Awards, Beauty<br />

professionals love.<br />

Changes Lives, and other special awards<br />

The America’s Beauty Show exhibit floor celebrating iconic leaders who performed<br />

industry excellence<br />

Marie Scarano<br />

The <strong>2023</strong> America’s Beauty Show, the in-person event the entire<br />

professional beauty industry loves, hit record attendance numbers with<br />

21,000+ unique attendees, 400+ exhibiting brands.<br />

was completely re-imagined with dynamic<br />

and interactive pavilions throughout the<br />

sold-out exhibit campus. The Runway and<br />

the Salon Innovation Stage showcased<br />

high-fashion presentations, dynamic<br />

panels, and world-class inspiration. The<br />

Rosemont, IL location offered dynamic<br />

entertainment, top dining options,<br />

shopping and more. Hotels and restaurants<br />

extraordinary service to the industry, Tickets<br />

are on sale now for the 2024 America’s<br />

Beauty Show, April 20th, 21st and 22nd,<br />

2024, Rosemont, IL. Get ready for even more<br />

excellence, education, and excitement!<br />

For additional questions, email info@<br />

americasbeautyshow.com or call 800-<br />

648-2505.<br />

E88


See the<br />

special awards<br />

coverage<br />

here!<br />

89E


proevents<br />

IHA<br />

<strong>2023</strong><br />

Sergi Bancells<br />

An incredible night of<br />

inspiration & creativity:<br />

1,600 hairdressers<br />

from around the<br />

world attended the<br />

International Hairdressing<br />

Awards <strong>2023</strong>.<br />

1,600 professionals from 30 countries<br />

gathered in Palma de Mallorca,<br />

Spain, for the sensational International<br />

Hairdressing Awards <strong>2023</strong>.<br />

This awe-inspiring competition has<br />

firmly established itself as a cornerstone<br />

of our industry since it was<br />

launched in 2019. Held at the Palau<br />

de Congressos de Palma on May<br />

8th, the ceremony was broadcast<br />

live online.<br />

The evening unfolded to great acclaim,<br />

complete with the purple carpet<br />

– the red carpet of our industry–<br />

and a catwalk show with some of<br />

the best hairdressing teams in the<br />

world presenting their collections.<br />

The Great Night of Hairdressing<br />

video<br />

video<br />

Scan the QR code to<br />

watch the amazing<br />

IHA <strong>2023</strong> video!<br />

This was, of course, followed by<br />

the most glamorous awards ceremony.<br />

The prestigious International<br />

Hair Legend <strong>2023</strong> was presented<br />

to global hair icon Anthony Mascolo,<br />

recognized for his exceptional<br />

career. Also, British hairdresser<br />

Sophia Hilton was honored with<br />

the International Hair Influencer of<br />

the Year award for her significant<br />

impact on social media and beyond.<br />

This year, the Best International<br />

Men’s Commercial Collection award<br />

went to Laura Scott and Bayleigh<br />

Peace from Mark Leeson Salons<br />

(UK), while the Best International<br />

Women’s Commercial Collection<br />

went to Robert Masciave, also<br />

E90


IHA <strong>2023</strong> was graced by an<br />

enchanting runway show with<br />

the extraordinary talents of<br />

acclaimed hairdressing teams.<br />

from the United Kingdom. Enrica<br />

Russo, a young Italian hairdresser<br />

based in the UK, triumphed in the<br />

Best International Avant-Garde Collection<br />

category. Swedish hairdresser<br />

and make-up artist Erika Okvist<br />

was honored as the Best International<br />

Film & TV Hairdresser of the<br />

Year. The Mark Leeson Art Team<br />

from the UK was recognized as the<br />

International Artistic Team of the<br />

Year, and for the second consecutive<br />

year, Cos Sakkas from TONI&-<br />

GUY (UK) was crowned International<br />

Hairdresser of the Year,<br />

the most prestigious accolade<br />

in the competition.<br />

INSPIRATION AT ITS BEST<br />

The awards ceremony was<br />

accompanied by a captivating<br />

runway show presentation<br />

featuring distinguished<br />

hairdressing teams<br />

such as Rick Roberts (UK),<br />

Steven Smart (UK), Mark<br />

Leeson Art Team (UK), HOB<br />

Creative Team (UK), Carlos<br />

Valiente (Spain), and Antoinette<br />

Beenders + X-Presion (<strong>USA</strong>/<br />

Spain). Additionally, prominent figures<br />

from the international hairdressing<br />

industry graced the event as<br />

VIP guests. The International Hairdressing<br />

Awards is an independent<br />

company founded by hairdressing<br />

icon Mikel Luzea, supported since<br />

the beginning from a main sponsor<br />

of international relevance that believes<br />

in IHA’s message and mission,<br />

Revlon Professional. Also, Estetica<br />

<strong>Magazine</strong> acts as global media partner<br />

and The Hair MBA and Salón<br />

Look Madrid as sponsors.<br />

91E


proevents<br />

Premiere<br />

Orlando<br />

If Premiere Orlando <strong>2023</strong> was any<br />

indication, it looks like the pro beauty<br />

world is back to business with<br />

great opportunities for success. Salon<br />

and spa owners, artists, and<br />

other industry professionals from<br />

around the world came to Orlando,<br />

Florida, in early June to learn, buy,<br />

test, network, meet and greet - and<br />

get inspired. This was a high energy<br />

event with nonstop activity and visual<br />

delights at every turn.<br />

In addition to the 650 educational<br />

classes and more than 500 exhibiting<br />

brands, there were pop up educational<br />

moments that made this a<br />

THE ULTIMATE BEAUTY EXPERIENCE<br />

There was something for every salon and spa professional at<br />

Premiere Orlando, a trade show “event” that is considered<br />

one of the most exciting in the industry.<br />

E92


video<br />

See more about<br />

Premiere Orlando<br />

here.<br />

video<br />

fantastic experience for all who<br />

braved the warm spring weather.<br />

Thousands of artists came to the<br />

Orange County Convention Center<br />

to learn the latest in hair color,<br />

shape, texture, extensions, updos,<br />

bridal silhouettes, hair loss solutions,<br />

and wigs and weaves; as<br />

well as barbering trends, beard<br />

sculpting, make up designs, social<br />

media updates, skin care techniques,<br />

nail art, lash building, business,<br />

sustainability and all the<br />

things necessary to succeed in the<br />

beauty space.<br />

HIGHLIGHTS GALORE<br />

This year the Main Stage was at<br />

one end of the show floor while the<br />

competition space (for hair, nails,<br />

makeup and barbering skills) was<br />

at the opposite end making both<br />

experiences easily accessible to all<br />

attendees. Noted presentations<br />

from the stage, the floor and classrooms<br />

included top training from<br />

key educators at Farouk, Ulta, Paul<br />

Mitchell, Olaplex, Moroccanoil, Oya,<br />

Pravana, Keratin Complex, Matrix,<br />

Andis, Amika, American Crew,<br />

Kenra and Sunlight among others.<br />

Industry stars were everywhere<br />

including Stephen Moody, Sonya<br />

Dove, Sam Villa, Guy Tang and<br />

Chrystofer Benson. There was even<br />

a Jan Arnold sighting!<br />

A highlight of Premiere was the<br />

“Leading Legends” presentation<br />

featuring industry icons Sam Villa,<br />

Candy Shaw, Tracey Hughes and<br />

Antoinette Beenders who inspired<br />

with business advice in addition to<br />

empowering lessons on how to<br />

build and grow a business while<br />

balancing work life with lifestyle.<br />

Brand executives took a break from<br />

the show to enjoy their own copy of<br />

the recently restyled Estetica.<br />

93E


pro brand news<br />

Make Summer<br />

a Success<br />

Now that summer’s here, the potential for salon growth soars.<br />

Make the most of the busy season with Fresha’s five-step checklist.<br />

With vacations booked and schedules packed, people will be<br />

looking to update their looks and get treatments they weren’t<br />

able to book or didn’t need during the colder months. They’re<br />

also more likely to book at all hours, and will appreciate the<br />

option to do that on the go. To leverage all this additional<br />

business, preparation is key. Explore our five-step checklist to<br />

make this summer your most successful one yet.<br />

1. TAKE BOOKINGS ONLINE<br />

Make sure clients can easily find you and book online, no<br />

matter the time of day. Using a platform like Fresha lets<br />

clients make their own bookings and then manage those<br />

appointments online, 24/7. They can see all your services<br />

and add-ons, choose a time that works for them, and then<br />

make changes if they need to, all in one place. Clients can<br />

even save their card details for a smooth checkout experience.<br />

Best of all? You can add a “Book Now” button to your social<br />

media accounts and website, linking straight to your online<br />

calendar.<br />

2. LAUNCH SUMMER PACKAGES VIA TEXT<br />

Your clients are likely devoting more time to self care in the<br />

summer. So, finding ways to get them to spend that time in<br />

your salon is key. Create irresistible summer packages, like a<br />

beach-ready highlights and hydrating mask combo, to attract<br />

clients and introduce some of your services that might be<br />

new to them. Text messages have an extremely high open rate<br />

compared to other outreach methods, so you can capitalize<br />

on that and promote deals to your clients, on-the-go. Just be<br />

sure to do this sparingly so your clients don’t feel like you’re<br />

contacting them too often.<br />

3. OFFER TRENDING SUMMER STYLES<br />

From sun-kissed hair color to creative nail art, summer always<br />

brings a new wave of beauty trends. Stay ahead of the curve<br />

by following leading online publications and top beauty<br />

influencers online and on social media. Then, add the<br />

summer trends you think will resonate most with your clients<br />

to your service list; summer is the time to get them booking<br />

those sought-after looks, and they’ll love getting ahead of the<br />

curve with you.<br />

4. PROTECT YOUR BUSINESS WITH DEPOSITS<br />

While the warmer weather tends to attract new clients, their<br />

busier schedules can also increase the risk of no-shows.<br />

Mitigate this by taking deposits based on service value right<br />

when clients book. Set up a cancellation policy that works<br />

for you and ensure it’s clearly communicated during booking,<br />

covering potential revenue loss and gaps in your schedule.<br />

This feature has helped Fresha partner salons decrease their<br />

no-shows by 89%.<br />

5. GET YOUR STAFF SUMMER RUSH-READY<br />

During this busy season, empower your team to manage their<br />

time seamlessly with an online booking platform like Fresha.<br />

Enable instant notifications to keep your team updated on<br />

appointment changes, what they’ve got coming up, and<br />

where there are gaps in their schedules. Then, keep track of<br />

E94


their performance with reporting tools so you can give your<br />

team feedback and reward them for their hard work.<br />

FRESHA: YOUR SECRET WEAPON FOR WINNING THIS<br />

SUMMER<br />

Fresha gives you all the tools you need to create impactful<br />

summer marketing campaigns for both new and existing<br />

clients. It also protects your business from no-shows, and<br />

helps you manage your appointments and staff with ease<br />

through the summer rush. All from one subscription-free<br />

platform, built to help salons succeed.<br />

Join the world’s<br />

#1 booking platform for<br />

salons now for free<br />

at fresha.com<br />

and make summer <strong>2023</strong><br />

a success.<br />

95E


Join the world’s #1 booking<br />

software for salons.<br />

Zero subscriptions.<br />

Unlimited possibilities.<br />

Scheduling. Payments. Marketing.<br />

All within one platform.<br />

Subscription-free.<br />

Join Fresha today<br />

fresha.com/business


<strong>USA</strong> EDITION<br />

Estetica <strong>USA</strong> Edition, n. 148 - Since 1993 - N.2 Summer <strong>2023</strong><br />

Index of Advertisers<br />

<strong>ESTETICA</strong> ITALIA<br />

EDIZIONI ESAV<br />

Via Cavour, 50<br />

10123 Torino (Italy)<br />

Tel.: +39 011 83921111<br />

Fax: +39 011 8125661<br />

www.estetica.it<br />

WEST COAST SALES REP.<br />

Marlena DuRon<br />

1564 Seabridge Lane,<br />

Oxnard, CA 93035 (<strong>USA</strong>)<br />

Tel. + 1 3104153360<br />

marlenaduron@gmail.com<br />

Denman Brush www.denmanbrushus.com 24<br />

Farouk Systems Inc. www.chi.com FC/01<br />

Fresha www.fresha.com 94/96<br />

Ga.Ma Srl www.gamaprofessional.com 04<br />

Kerasilk www.kerasilk.com 02<br />

OMC www.omchairworld.com OBC<br />

<strong>USA</strong> EDITION<br />

SUSTAINABILITY<br />

In products, salons,<br />

& the community<br />

COVER STORY<br />

Inspired by Nature,<br />

made possible by Lisap<br />

RESTYLING<br />

From printed page to<br />

digital interactivity<br />

Estetica <strong>USA</strong> “ISSN 2239-7213” (USPS # 12220) is published quarterly for $ 49.00 per year by EDIZIONI ESAV SRL- Via Cavour 50, 10123 Torino.<br />

Distributed in the <strong>USA</strong> by Tri State <strong>Magazine</strong> NY, Inc, 1209 Oakpoint Ave, Bronx, NY 10474 POSTMASTER:<br />

Send address changes to Estetica <strong>USA</strong> c/o Tri State <strong>Magazine</strong> NY, Inc, 1209 Oakpoint Ave, Bronx, NY 10474<br />

Registration n. 435 of 7.4.49, Turin Law Court. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part of texts or photography is prohibited. Manuscripts, photographs and art are<br />

selected at the discretion of the publi sher free of charge (advertising exclu ded). Whether published or not, no material will be returned and remains the property of the publishing<br />

house, which may make use of it as seen fit. This may include the withdrawal of publication rights to other publishing houses. Estetica requires exclusive publication rights in the<br />

hairdressing sector for all photography submitted which must not therefore be offered for publication to other magazines in the hairdressing trade or industry.<br />

ERRATA CORRIGE<br />

The credits of the<br />

cover of Estetica <strong>USA</strong><br />

Spring 1-23, displayed<br />

the hairdresser’s<br />

name misspelled.<br />

The correct name is:<br />

Liza Espinoza Achurra @<br />

Modaliza2<br />

Notice to subscribers (Art. 13 of EU Regulation 679/2016)<br />

Pursuant to Art.13 of EU Regulation 679/2016, our company will proceed with the processing of the personal data you provide in compliance with current laws in force concerning<br />

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Data process controller is the company Edizioni Esav S.r.l. - Via Cavour 50, 10123 Turin.<br />

The person whose information was processed may, at any time, exercise the rights established by the EU Regulation (Art. 15 Right to access;<br />

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