British Travel Journal | Summer 2023

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

SUMMER 2023 | ISSUE 15 

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 

I N 

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CONTRIBUTIONS 

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

Welcome 

EDITOR’S LETTER 

— 

EDITORS 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

HEAD OF DIGITAL Adrian Wilkinson 

CONTRIBUTORS 

Sophie Farrah, Jane Knight, Sophie Minto, 

Adrian Mourby, Karyn Noble, Emma O'Reilly, 

Natalie Paris, Adrienne Wyper 

COVER PHOTO 

— 

Clovelly Village in Devon. Read more in our 

Coastal Stays article, page 90 

Published by 

CONTISTA MEDIA 

Unit 6, Basepoint, Andersons Road, 

Southampton, SO14 5FE 

01489 660680 

contistamedia.co.uk 

With 2023 designated Year of the Coast, now is the 

time to plan a trip to explore, embrace and enjoy 

our wonderful coastline. In this issue we bring you 

a plethora of options, from one of the UK’s hottest 

new hotel openings, a stone’s throw from Bournemouth’s sandy 

beach (p24) to the stylish dog-friendly beach lofts at Watergate 

Bay (p68) and luxurious coastal stays where you hear nothing but 

a soundtrack of waves as you fall to sleep (p90). For more active 

seaside pursuits, enjoy island-hopping in the Scottish Hebrides 

(p80). Plus, don’t miss the chance to win a stay in one of Cornwall’s 

most picturesque fishing villages, Coverack (p67). 

Transitioning from coast to city, we take a relaxing weekend break 

in Cambridge (p28), and a walking tour of historic Warwick (p86) 

should also tempt you back inland. We discover the best waterfalls to 

visit (p44) and the finest vineyards where you can sip and stay (p34). 

And if it is the countryside you seek this summer, head to The 

Pheasantry, a new luxury self-catering holiday cottage on the 

Goodwood Estate (p60) and find time to explore the impressive 

new distillery and capture the magic of The Cotswolds (p74). 

Coast, city or countryside, no matter where you find yourself this 

summer, we wish you an incredible season filled with unbeatable 

moments and dream travel adventures. 

Jessica x 

JESSICA WAY 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 

– 

All rights reserved by Contista Media Ltd. Copyright is either 

owned by or licenced to Contista Media Ltd, or permitted by the 

original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without 

written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken 

prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd 

take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by 

authors are not necessarily those of the publisher. 

@BritishTravelJournal 

@BritishTravelJournal 

@BTravelJournal 

BritishTravelJournal.com 3

SUMMER ON TRESCO 

Time to be spoilt. With a short flight yet scenery that doesn’t seem of this 

country. With deserted beaches in the middle of August. With long days 

bookended by epic sunrises and sunsets. With all the island-hopping, 

clear-water kayaking, peaceful paddleboarding possibilities. 

TRESCO.CO.UK/SUMMER 

Tresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. Somewhere else altogether.

CONTENTS 

SUMMER 2023 | ISSUE 15 

52 

34 

68 

FEATURES 

24 

SPOTLIGHT ON: THE NICI 

It’s Bournemouth’s turn to shine, as Editor Jessica Way goes 

behind the scenes of its new multimillion-pound, five-star hotel, The 

Nici, for your ultimate beachside getaway with a real dollop of luxury. 

CAMBRIDGE: AN INSPIRING CITY BREAK 

28 It’s a city renowned for academia but that doesn’t mean 

Cambridge is low on charm, as we take a relaxing weekend in this 

architecturally impressive getaway, where drifting down the River Cam 

on a chauffeured flat-bottomed boat is a serene way to see the sights. 

SIP AND STAY: VINEYARD HOTELS 

34 Britain has some truly beautiful vineyards, many with 

extraordinary accommodation to match, so we have rounded 

up the best for your drinking and dining pleasure, from five-star 

manor houses with Michelin-starred restaurants to luxurious 

lodges and quirkily converted farmhouses. 

THE WONDER OF WATERFALLS 

44 Savour the simultaneous serenity and power in this ode to 

the best waterfalls in Britain, whether you’re skimming through 

North England’s Aira Force in Cumbria to Wales’ Four Falls Trail, 

the Peak District National Park or Northern Ireland’s glens of 

Antrim, we have plenty of scenic stops to add to your road trip. 

THE PEAK DISTRICT AND DERBYSHIRE’S 

52 FOODIE TRAIL 

There are many delicious reasons to cycle around the Peak 

District, rewarding yourself with gourmet stops aplenty, sampling 

the likes of Bakewell Pudding, local craft beers, gins and cheese, 

and taking the opportunity for some cutlery and crockery 

inspiration too. 

GLORIOUS GOODWOOD 

60 Motorsports, horse-racing and golf afficionados may 

already be acquainted with the famous Goodwood Estate in West 

Sussex, but there are many more indulgent adventures to be had 

at this extraordinary destination. 

WATERGATE BAY BEACH LOFTS 

68 Summer holidays in Cornwall never looked so inviting, with 

the new loft suites at Watergate Bay Hotel offering close-up access 

to the surf and sand, and a warm welcome for your pooches too. 


E D I T O R 

L O V E S 

Two of our favourite hotels, Another 

Place in the Lake District and The 

Machrie on the Isle of Islay have teamed 

up to offer guests an unforgettable 

experience staying in The Machrie’s 

gloriously wild location this summer. 

Co-curated with The Machrie team, 

Another Place is bringing their love for 

the great outdoors to Islay – offering 

guests wild swimming, stargazing, 

marshmallow-toasting and firepit 

cocktails (just as they’d expect at 

Another Place, The Lake), along with 

Hebridean wildlife sunset boat trips, 

golf tuition, fatbike hire, tuk-tuk island 

tours, distillery visits and much more. 

Available throughout August 2023. 

Prices from £742 per person for three 

nights at The Machrie to include fatbike 

hire, Islay Sea Adventures wildlife boat 

trip, sunset cocktail on the dune deck/ 

beach firepit experience, dinner (two 

nights) and airport/ferry port transfers. 

Alternatively, go for the full experience 

– a five-night, two-location holiday that 

includes all of the above, plus two nights 

at Another Place, The Lake in Cumbria en 

route. Prices from £2,034 for two people. 

another.place/scottish-island-adventure 

6 BritishTravelJournal.com 

ISLAND-HOPPING IN THE 

80 HEBRIDES 

Taking a sailing adventure around Scotland’s 

Hebrides with your own skipper and chef is a 

dreamy way to celebrate the warmer weather, 

see some fabulous scenery and wildlife, and 

disconnect from life’s usual distractions. 

A WALK AROUND WARWICK 

86 Lace up your boots, we’ve got a special 

self-guided tour of Warwick, one of England’s bestpreserved 

towns, where architectural splendour 

and fascinating history await your attention. 

COASTAL STAYS 

90 If you want to stay beside the sea this 

summer, we’ve rounded up the best hotels with 

fabulous views, where hot tubs and infinity 

pools come with blissful scenery, perhaps even 

with the chance of spotting seals or dolphins. 

INTERVIEWS 

74 

MEET THE MAKER: 

COTSWOLDS DISTILLERY 

We chat to the founder of Cotswolds Distillery, 

Daniel Szor, who has just become the largest 

producer of English whisky, thanks to a new £3 

million distillery expansion. 

JOTTINGS 

09 

TRAVEL NEWS 

Whether you’re in the market for 

glamping inspiration or the most indulgent 

wellness hotels, we’ve got your summer 

destinations covered, from brand-new spa 

garden suites in the Lake District and yurts 

with stargazing ceilings in Yorkshire to dogfriendly 

stays in County Durham. 

COMPETITION: WIN A 

58 HOTEL STAY 

Don’t miss the chance to stay at one of 

four opulent PoB hotels: Palé Hall in Wales, 

Cromlix in Scotland, Lucknam Park Hotel 

& Spa in England or The Atlantic in The 

Channel Islands. 

COMPETITION: STAY IN 

67 A COASTAL CORNISH 

COTTAGE 

We are spoiling you with competitions in this 

edition, with a trip to Trevanion Cottage in one 

of Cornwall’s fishing villages also up for grabs. 

98 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

Our summer book recommendations and 

crossword are here to challenge those holiday 

brains or to while away the hours on the beach. 

80

Northcote, Lancashire 

OPEN THE DOOR TO INSPIRATION 

Think of PoB Hotels as the key and each one of our hotels as a door to new 

experiences. Each completely unique. Each hand-picked by us. Each the 

Pride of Britain. 

www.pobhotels.com

mg.co.uk 

Save 25% 

with our 

Day Pass 

Explore 

Greenwich 

Walk underneath Cutty Sark 

and reach up to touch the ship’s 

iconic copper hull. 

Greenwich Pier 

Cutty Sark 

Greenwich (only 8 mins from London Bridge)

Summer 

TRAVEL NEWS 

Hip hotels, relaxing retreats and gorgeous glamping are among 

the new options for a great British break this summer 

Text by Jane Knight 

HOTEL NEWS 

GLAMPING 

SELF-CATERING 

EXPERIENCES 

from page 10 from page 14 

from page 16 from page 18 

Main photo: Jolliffe, Bamburgh, Northumberland (p16). Pictured left to right: Arthur's, Hillsborough (p10); Treehouses at Leckie, Stirlingshire (p15); 

The Fable, Perranporth (p17); Salvador Dali sculptures, Shrewsbury (p20)

Hotel News 

LONDON 

Birch Selsdon, Croydon 

A mashup of work and wellness, hotel and 

members club, offering great food and 

unusual activities, Birch opened its first 

property in Cheshunt in 2020. Now it has 

a second outpost, this time with a family 

wing in the 19th-century mansion set amid 

grounds of 200 acres. Expect bunk beds 

in some of the stripped-back rooms, a kids 

club, lido, and activities including pottery, 

screen printing and cooking. It’s fun for all 

the family, and you get an introductory food 

credit of £20 per person. ◆ 

Rooms from £160; birchcommunity.com 

SOMERSET 

Three Horseshoes, Batcombe 

It’s good luck for gastro-pub lovers: acclaimed chef Margot Henderson 

OBE has just opened The Three Horseshoes, with five bedrooms 

upstairs. The simple, short menu is big on food from local suppliers, 

featuring dishes such as wild garlic and bread broth, Old Spot chop and 

apple sauce, followed by double lemon pudding. Delicious. ◆ 

Rooms from £220, with breakfast, thethreehorseshoesbatcombe.co.uk 

NORTHERN IRELAND 

Arthur’s, Hillsborough 

We love the look of this chic new guesthouse on Hillsborough’s 

Main Street. The 12 effortlessly stylish bedrooms blend antiques 

and architecture dating back to 1904 with contemporary comfort. 

Statement fabric headboards and plenty of colourful velvets are 

common to all rooms, while some have a copper bath, period fireplace 

or adjoining ‘pod’ area for children. ◆ 

Rooms from £150, with breakfast, arthurshillsborough.com 

10 BritishTravelJournal.com

LAKE DISTRICT 

Armathwaite Hall Hotel & Spa 

Eight swish new spa garden suites open in June at this Lake District 

hotel, each with oversized windows framing the views, and outdoor 

space. Guests can walk in the 400-acre estate and book forest 

bathing and a mindfulness-with-animals experience. 

From £485 a night, with breakfast, armathwaite-hall.com 

HAMPSHIRE 

The Bothy by Wildsmith 

at Heckfield Place 

Nature comes first at this long-awaited spa; 

in place of cutting-edge therapies, you get a 

more holistic approach. Go forest bathing or 

try cold-water swimming in the lake before 

returning to the two-storied serene space for a 

warm up in the glass-fronted sauna, outdoor 

hydrotherapy area or indoor pool. The 

soundtrack is birdsong, and Skye Gyngell’s 

short plant-based menu is designed to refresh 

the body. It’s not cheap – 135 minutes costs 

£310, but that starts with a consultation and 

includes access to specialists on naturopathy, 

osteopathy and reiki. ◆ 

heckfieldplace.com 

BRISTOL 

Hort's Townhouse 

For a budget break in Bristol, take a look at this 

revamped pub with 19 boutique bedrooms. Downstairs, 

it’s all vintage leather chairs and booths, with eclectic 

artwork in the blue-panelled dining room, and pub 

grub as well as seafood on the menu. Upstairs, rooms 

might have freestanding bathtubs, high ceilings, quirky 

corners and dogs’ or kids’ beds. ◆ 

Rooms from £109, hortstownhousebristol.co.uk 


WALES 

The Georgian Swansea 

Antiques and artwork abound in this Georgian-style boutique hotel 

near the Maritime Quarter. Some of the 12 bedrooms have fourposter 

beds, others might have double showers or a roll-top bath. 

You can get half-price rooms on a Sunday, too. 

Rooms from £144, thegeorgianswansea.com 

MANCHESTER 

Manchester Malmaison 

Deansgate 

With bold floral murals on bedroom walls 

and ceilings as well as tropical rainforest 

designs on shower-room tiles, Malmaison’s 

second property in Manchester is definitely 

not for wallflowers. Paying homage to the 

retro designs of the '60s and '70s, the hotel 

will also feature a rooftop bar, where guests 

can enjoy Pan-Asian style tapas dishes while 

overlooking Albert Square. It’s due to open 

in July, with rooms from £195 in August. 

If you can’t wait until then, Malmaison’s 

Piccadilly hotel has just refurbished some of 

its rooms, which cost from £129. ◆ 

malmaison.com 

COUNTY DURHAM 

Dog-friendly stays at Seaham Hall 

Four-legged guests can now stay at this beautiful hotel with 

superb spa facilities, which also makes the perfect base to 

explore County Durham’s coastline. What’s more, if you’re 

the owner of a King Charles cavalier spaniel and book to 

stay with them before 30 June, you will get three nights for 

the price of two to celebrate the royal coronation. ◆ 

From £465 for two humans and two dogs, with 

breakfast, seaham-hall.co.uk 


Northcliffe, Cornwall 

Find your special place 

From luxury contemporary barn conversions to charming 

thatched cottages, we’ve hand-picked the very best to bring 

you holiday memories to treasure. 

A portfolio of 

over 600 luxury 

self-catering 

holiday properties 

across the UK 

01386 897 959 

ruralretreats.co.uk

Glamping 

YORKSHIRE 

Yurtshire, Yorkshire Dales 

National Park 

The yurts at Eavestone Lake on the edge of the 

Yorkshire Dales are already pretty special. On 

raised platforms, they come with a private hot 

tub and BBQ outside, a kitchen and bathroom, 

electricity and a wood burner, plus stargazing 

ceilings above the bed. Now they also have 

access to a nearby glass-fronted sauna in the 

woods, a spa treatment yurt and wellness studio. 

Add to that yoga by the lake, wild swimming 

and ice baths and you’ve got all the ingredients 

necessary for the perfect wellness mini-break. ◆ 

A night from £220 for two, yurtshire.co.uk 

LINCOLNSHIRE 

The Nest, Stamford 

Inspired by safari lodges in Kenya but slap bang in the middle of 

the English countryside, the Nest’s three ‘tents’ are dog and family 

friendly. With three bedrooms sleeping six, they have a large living 

area and an inviting egg-shaped tub with great views of the lake. 

You can order a hamper or BBQ pack. ◆ 

Four nights from £750, thenestglamping.co.uk 

RIBBLE VALLEY 

Everything Retreat 

Soak up the scenery of the Ribble Valley as you lie in your private 

hot tub in one of a dozen lodges set amid verdant hills. Whether 

you pick a Scandi-chic or a ski-chalet theme, each cabin has a 

woodburning stove and kitchenette within. A new wellness space 

is the place for yoga and meditation. ◆ 

From £250 a night, everything-retreat.com 


SCOTLAND 

Treehouses at Leckie, Stirlingshire 

Taking treehouses to a whole new level, these four raised wooden 

cabins amid ancient woodland have views to the Gargunnock Hills. 

With one or two bedrooms, they feature underfloor heating and wood 

burners, with outdoor copper baths and electric BBQs. 

A night from £290, leckietreehouses.co.uk 

WALES 

Hide at St Donats 

Lie in bed and gaze out of the 5m 

picture window towards the Glamorgan 

coast from the Pavilion, a gorgeous 

getaway for couples. New to this little 

glampsite next to St Donat’s Castle, it 

has a swish wood-floored dining/sitting 

area with the same view, decorated by 

glasswork, art and textiles from local 

artisans. A small twin room is at the 

back, along with a kitchen and shower 

room. There’s plenty to see in the 

surrounding area…although you could 

just stay in and enjoy that view. ◆ 

From £160 a night for two, hide.wales 

WELSH BORDERS 

By the Wye, Wye Valley 

A new accessible tent is opening at this small site, with 

five existing tents. It sleeps up to six people, is on one 

level with ramp access, and is near its own car parking 

space. Meanwhile the romantic couples’ tent, The 

Cwtch, gains a private sauna on its lower deck, with 

river views from the floor-to-ceiling windows, and an 

outdoor shower. ◆ 

Two nights from £330 for two, bythewye.uk 


Self-catering 

DORSET 

Stockford Lodge, Wareham 

Talk about chocolate-box pretty – this thatched 

cottage curves around its chimney. Within, it’s a 

round world of timbers and tiling, with Gothicstyle 

windows and two snug bedrooms, along with 

a slipper bath in the bathroom. Near Wareham 

in bluebell woodland, it’s just a 1.5 mile walk to 

Durdle Door on the coast. The cottage has a 

cultured past; the former hideaway of bohemian 

artist Augustus John, it is also believed to have 

belonged to the family whose ancestor was said to 

have inspired the character of James Bond. ◆ 

Seven nights for four from £670, 

dorsetcoastalcottages.com 

SKYE 

IMAGE © MATTHEW HERITAGE 

Black Box Cabin 

Enjoy the remarkable views from the outdoor bathtub for two or 

from the bed at this cabin in Skye’s scenic Valley of Glendale. Black 

on the outside, the sleek property is black, white and grey on the 

inside. Foodies can book a nine-course private dining experience or 

go foraging to make their own lunch. ◆ 

A week for four from £1,839, boutique-retreats.co.uk 

NORTHUMBERLAND 

Jolliffe, Bamburgh 

No children or dogs are allowed at this two-bedroom cottage 

but that means you can take in the spectacular views of 

Bamburgh Castle from the patio and gardens in peace. It’s just 

minutes on foot from the golden beach that helped Bamburgh 

win the Which? title of the nation’s favourite seaside destination 

for the third year running. ◆ 

Three nights from £794, coquetcottages.co.uk 


CORNWALL 

Atlanta, Trevone 

Whisk families and friends away on a wellness break (21–24 

September) at these five self-catering properties. Take a breathwork 

class, practise daily yoga and try the benefits of cold-water 

immersion before sweating it out in a sauna by the sea. 

Three nights for £995 per person, based on five sharing, 

atlantatrevonebay.com 

CORNWALL 

The Fable, Perranporth 

Fans of The White Company rejoice – you 

can now stay in a thatched Cornish cottage 

decorated in collaboration with the luxury 

brand. From the minute you step through the 

door, it’ll feel like you’re in a White Company 

catalogue. The air is scented with Lime & 

Bay, cashmere throws are draped over sofas, 

and the two bedrooms have fine linens and 

the fluffiest dressing gowns. Outside, there’s 

a hot tub in the garden, and the sandy beach 

of Perranporth on the north Cornish coast is 

just ten minutes away. ◆ 

A week for four from £1,695, 

uniquehomestays.com 

THE COTSWOLDS 

Temple Guiting Manor 

If an outdoor pool, cinema, hot tub and 

tennis courts aren’t enough when staying in 

one of the five stone properties at this small 

estate, guests now have access to a wellness 

centre, offering morning yoga, lunchtime 

fitness or spa treatments. ◆ 

From £450 a night for two, 

templeguitingmanor.co.uk 


Experiences 

SUFFOLK 

Mutiny in Colour art 

exhibition 

See street art from Banksy and work from 

Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin plus other 

contemporary artists among more than 

300 exhibits on show in Suffolk from June to 

October. The art will be displayed in three 

venues: at Moyse’s Hall Museum, Bury St 

Edmunds; the National Horseracing Museum, 

Newmarket; and Haverhill Arts Centre. It 

includes Banksy’s Sandcastle Girl, painted on 

a wall in Lowestoft during his ‘spraycation’ to 

East Anglia in 2021, and his Hula Hoop Girl, 

which originally appeared on the wall of a 

beauty salon in Nottingham. ◆ 

whatsonwestsuffolk.co.uk 

SCOTLAND 

Dior Spa Royal Scotsman 

It’s already pretty plush on Belmond’s Royal Scotsman. For an even more 

first-class experience, you can lie back in one of two lacquered treatment 

rooms and enjoy a tailor-made Dior massage as the train wends its way 

through mountains and valleys. Also new are adventure-focused trips 

and a culinary journey with Michelin-starred chef Tom Kitchin. ◆ 

belmond.com 

COUNTY DURHAM 

Bishop Auckland to Stanhope Railway 

This one is just the ticket for rail enthusiasts – the 16-mile 

heritage railway has reopened after extensive restoration 

during a three-year hiatus. Visitors can ride it from Stanhope on 

selected summer weekends for a fun day out at Auckland Castle, 

one of the best-preserved bishop’s palaces in Europe, sitting on 

150 acres of parkland. ◆ 

aucklandproject.org 


ISLES OF SCILLY 

Dog-friendly flights to Tresco and St Mary’s 

Pet lovers can now take their pups on the 15-minute helicopter 

flight to the Isles of Scilly, where they can sniff their way round 

the Tresco Abbey Gardens, stay overnight in a Flying Boat 

cottage on Tresco (during Dog-Friendly February) or at the dogfriendly 

Hell Bay Hotel on neighbouring Bryher. 

Pets £70 return, humans £289, penzancehelicopters.co.uk 

SCOTLAND 

Rewilding Loch Ness 

Learn how rewilding helps golden eagles, 

red squirrels and wood ants at this freeto-enter 

centre near Loch Ness in the 

Highlands. The centre acts as a gateway 

to the 10,000-acre Dundreggan estate, 

where Trees for Life is restoring the 

Caledonian forest and its wildlife. After 

taking in the tree sculpture of reclaimed 

metal created by artist Helen Denerley, 

head into the woods with its accessible 

trails and child-friendly forest experiences. 

Displays are in both English and Gaelic, 

with a storytelling bothy showcasing local 

history and heritage. ◆ 

visitdundreggan.co.uk 

WALES 

Summer Camp, Hawarden 

Celebrate the great outdoors and learn how to cook 

on campfires and where to forage for ingredients 

during one of the July weekend micro festivals on 

the Hawarden Estate. Join a sign-writing workshop, 

enjoy natural wine tasting, paddleboard on the lake 

or just jump in. Take your own tent or stay in bell 

tents and huts on-site. ◆ 

From £330pp in your own tent, thegoodlifesociety.co.uk 


Experiences 

SHROPSHIRE 

Salvador Dalí sculptures 

loaned to Shrewsbury 

Surrealism comes to Shrewsbury this summer with 

three Dalí sculptures taking centre stage at the 

market town’s annual Art Trail. The well-known 

bronze sculpture Surrealist Piano in which the 

piano’s legs are fashioned as a dancer’s limbs, 

will be joined by Dalí’s Homage to Terpsichore 

and Dalinian Dancer. The eight-week festival is 

themed on movement this year. It opens at the 

beginning of July and also features work from 

artists including Banksy, Damien Hirst, Barbara 

Hepworth and L S Lowry. Among the exhibitions 

and events is a children’s treasure trail. ◆ 

shrewsburyartstrail.com 

SURREY 

World of Jumanji, Chessington 

Race into the World of Jumanji at 42mph on the world’s first Jumanji 

roller-coaster. Mandrill Mayhem sweeps you up through the treetops, 

flipping you upside down as you ride it either facing forwards or 

backwards. Two other rides will also feature in the new park section, 

along with six Jumanji-themed bedrooms in the hotel. ◆ 

chessington.com 

THE CHANNEL ISLANDS 

Exclusive use of Herm Island 

Fancy the ultimate exclusive-use venue for a wow-factor wedding or 

special occasion? You can now take over the island of Herm; its 40 

hotel rooms and 19 self-catering cottages have space for 201 guests. 

Only a mile and a half long and half a mile wide, the dinky Channel 

Island is car free. ◆ 

From £50,000, herm.com 


ROYAL SHAKESPEARE THEATRE 

17 JUNE – 5 AUGUST 2023 

BOOK NOW 

rsc.org.uk 

WILLIAM 

SHAKESPEARE 

The work of the RSC is supported by the Culture Recovery Fund 

As You Like It is supported by Season Supporter Charles Holloway 

Sponsored by

Holiday Homes in 

Northumberland 

info@coquetcottages.co.uk 

01665 710 700 

coquetcottages.co.uk 

Scan Here to View our Portfolio: 

A Right Royal 

Spectacle: 

The Coronation 

of George IV 

Until 10 Sep 2023 

Open daily 

Admission payable 

Members free 

brightonmuseums.org.uk 

A display 

revealing tales 

of outrageous 

expense, vanity 

and loss.

HAMPSHIRE 

Retreats at Lime Wood, New Forest 

There are few better teachers on meditation and mindfulness than 

Rajesh Ramani and Smitha Jayakumar, two former monks who 

worked at the renowned Kamalaya resort in Thailand. Join their first 

UK retreat from 6–8 June, or one-day courses on 9 and 10 June. 

One day from £495, limewoodhotel.co.uk 

WALES 

The Dreaming Retreat 

From forest bathing to foraging, singing 

at dawn to stargazing, and meditation to 

mythic storytelling, this new retreat has a 

fascinating mix of activities. Along with 

crafts that might include den building 

or woodwork, they’re all included in the 

price, which starts at a very reasonable 

£450 for three nights, including food. The 

idea is the brainchild of singer Charlotte 

Church, who opened the retreat at her 

46-acre estate, with its waterfalls, pools 

and caves, to allow guests to really get in 

tune with nature. ◆ 

thedreaming.co.uk 

CORNWALL 

Cornish Vineyard Retreat 

If you’re more into wines than wellness, take a look 

at this offering from The Alverton Hotel in Truro in 

conjunction with Knightor Winery. The two-night event, 

from 29 September, kicks off with a five-course dinner 

accompanied by a Knightor wine flight. The next day, 

participants head to the Portscatho vineyard for a behindthe-scenes 

tour and tasting plus a canapé lunch. ◆ 

From £739 for two, thealverton.co.uk 


Spotlight on... 

THE NICI 

It's about time Bournemouth laid claim to a hotel to match the charm 

of its picture-postcard Victorian Pier and glamour of its stunning golden 

sands, and so here it arrives: The Nici, a five-star, multimillion-pound Shangri-la 

Text by Jessica Way 

Bournemouth has long been a traditional ‘buckets 

and spades’ seaside destination, known for its 

red sandstone cliffs, rows of colourful beach huts, 

seafront family amusements and Blue Flag beaches. 

The sun only needs pop its head out from behind a 

cloud on England's south coast for the holidaymakers and 

tourists to flock to Bournemouth – a good indication that 

British summertime has officially begun. 

Its warming rays entice thousands of people from far 

and wide – often making the headlines. However, this 

summer there is a new reason for Bournemouth to be in 

the press – the latest five-star arrival to Bournemouth’s 

sun-drenched horizon: The Nici. 

The luxurious resort perched on Bournemouth’s 

West Cliff has been a labour of love; a £20 million 

redevelopment has transformed the wonderful landmark 

building (formerly The Savoy) into a modern and vibrant 

84-bedroom hotel and spa. Fuss has been replaced with 

fun, while drawing on inspiration from Miami’s South 

Beach lifestyle (think bold, quirky art, palms in oversized 

pots and banquette seating), and it seems every media 

organisation from Country Living Magazine to The Telegraph 


‘ 

Guests of The Nici can still feel the sand between their toes and swim in the 

crystal-clear ocean. Yet, instead of striped deckchairs, sandcastles and fish and chips, 

there are poolside loungers, manicured gardens... firepits and a luxury wellness spa 

’ 

has something wonderful to say about it, including The 

Times, which has named The Nici 'Seaside Hotel of the 

Year for 2023'. 

Guests of The Nici can still feel the sand between their 

toes and swim in the crystal-clear ocean. Yet, instead of 

striped deckchairs, sandcastles and fish and chips, there 

are poolside loungers, manicured gardens, a restaurant 

with alfresco terrace, sunken firepits and a luxury wellness 

spa – a first for Bournemouth. There's also an indoor 

cinema, outdoor heated pool with sea views, and an 

activity centre with a host of equipment that can be 

borrowed, free of charge, for the day – including bicycles, 

paddleboards, bodyboards, kayaks, beach games and 

yoga mats. There are family and dog-friendly rooms, 

exquisite suites with spectacular views, and garden hot tubs. 

Visit this summer while the sun is shining and be sure to 

sink into a cabana beside the palm-green pool with a glass 

of South Beach Punch in your hand, relaxing to the sound 

of the waves lapping against the shore. 

The Nici has successfully redefined the English seaside 

holiday experience. 

Double rooms from £375, thenici.com 


SPECIAL FEATURE 

Matilda The Musical 

THE ROYAL SHAKESPEARE COMPANY 

Photography credit: Manuel Harlan 



Inspired by the beloved book by the incomparable Roald Dahl 

The multi-award winning musical 

adapted from the much-loved 

Roald Dahl book, has won 

over 100 international awards, 

including 24 for Best Musical. 

With book by Dennis Kelly and original 

songs by Tim Minchin, Matilda The Musical 

is the story of an extraordinary little girl, 

armed with a vivid imagination and a 

sharp mind, who dares to take a stand and 

change her own destiny. 

A tonic for audiences of all ages, this 

anarchic production continues Roald 

Dahl's theme of bravery and standing up 

for what you believe in, inspiring young 

audiences all over the world. 

The West End production is currently 

playing to audiences in the Cambridge 

Theatre on the corner of Earlham Street 

facing Seven Dials. Your visit to London 

this summer just isn’t complete without a 

trip to experience Matilda The Musical. ◆ 

HOW TO BOOK TICKETS 

Matilda The Musical is taking 

bookings now with excellent 

availability mid-week throughout 

the summer holidays. Tickets 

priced from £20. 

Call 020 3925 2998 to book. 

For the full performance 

schedule visit 

www.matildathemusical.com 


AN 

city 

INSPIRING 

BREAK

You don’t need to be an academic to stay in this smart and stylish 

university city. Cambridge is small and everything is strollable. There’s 

plenty to fill a weekend – from drifting along the river in a punt to 

wandering around the dreamy colleges and world-class museums 

Text by Emma O'Reilly 

We discovered rather quickly 

that walking around 

Cambridge takes time, as 

intriguing buildings beckon 

seductively along every street. 

The first one for us was the famous 

Fitzwilliam Museum (free entry, as with 

most Cambridge museums), a wonderful 

whirlwind of armour, ceramics, art, and 

fascinating Egyptian and Roman antiquities. 

By the time we’d explored, elevenses 

beckoned so we dived into local institution 

Fitzbillies for a coffee and their famous 

Chelsea buns (very sticky, very sweet). 

Next up, a college crawl. Cambridge 

University’s colleges are sprinkled across the 

city. We began at King's. It’s the grandaddy 

of them all, partly due to its enormous chapel 

and famously talented choir. 

Note that entry costs £11 – and visitors 

can’t see much more than the chapel itself – 

but it is truly impressive. Highlights include 

the oak chancel screen, gifted by King Henry 

VIII and Anne Boleyn, which runs the width 

of the chapel. 

There are soaring stained-glass windows, 

a valuable Rubens painting (Adoration of the 

Magi), and the most intricate fan-vaulted 

ceiling. Top tip – visit during term time 

and enjoy the chapel for free by attending 

evensong (daily except Sundays at 5.30pm, 

queues from around 4.45pm). 


A spot of lunch at the excellent 

Senate bistro and it was time to see a 

couple of the smaller colleges. Most 

are free to enter, so it’s easy to dip 

in and out as you please. At Christ's 

College there is a surprisingly large 

and interesting garden and a 17thcentury 

outdoor pool with pavilion. 

At Emmanuel College we admired 

the chapel and took a peek into the 

beautiful Georgian dining room. 

On the way to our hotel, we 

dawdled around the shops – 

everything from high-street names 

to boutique and vintage. I clocked 

the Cambridge Gin Laboratory, 

where you can book yourself onto a 

gin tasting or gin cocktail-making 

workshop. I earmarked it for another 

time and contented myself with a 

G&T at the Eagle pub. 

It was the drinking hole during 

the 1950s of scientists Watson and 

Crick. They famously announced 

here that they had discovered the 

exact structure of DNA. Allied air 

officers during WWII were also 

regulars. They used lighters, wax 

candles and lipstick to write their 

names on the pub ceiling – still visible 

today. 

The Varsity Hotel & Spa has a 

great location; on a quiet road, an 

PREVIOUS PAGE, LEFT 

TO RIGHT: KING'S 

COLLEGE AT SUNRISE; 

EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES, 

FITZWILLIAM MUSEUM; 

INSIDE THE KING'S 

CHAPEL. THIS PAGE, 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP 

LEFT: ROOFTOP BAR AT 

THE VARSITY HOTEL & 

SPA; BRIDGE OF SIGHS, 

ST JOHNS COLLEGE; 

SCUDAMORE’S QUAYSIDE 

PUNTING STATION. 

FOLLOWING PAGE: THE 

FOLIO BAR & KITCHEN AT 

THE FELLOWS HOUSE 


‘ 

Early the next morning the sun was shining – the perfect time for punting... 

we opted for a chauffeured trip – steering these flat-bottomed boats yourself, 

using only a long pole, is fun but tricky. 

’ 

easy walk away from all the sights. Our room looked out 

over the Cambridge rooftops from its spacious balcony, 

complete with table and chairs and outdoor sofa. We 

took advantage of the Elemis Glassworks spa, with its 

sauna, steam room and hot tub. It’s located next door to 

the main hotel building, in an old warehouse, once part of 

a brewery. I wished I’d booked a massage or facial as the 

spa menu was tempting, but there was still plenty to look 

forward to, as dinner plans lay ahead. 

First, though, came an aperitif at the hotel's rooftop 

bar – one of the best places in Cambridge to sip and 

sightsee, with its 360-degree city views. At the hotel’s top 

floor restaurant, Six, my starter of pan-seared scallops 

was perfectly cooked, as was the main course of roasted 

salmon with fire-roasted peppers and giant couscous. 

I was feeling replete by the time the dessert menu 

came. However, I did manage a couple of spoonful’s of my 

husband’s sticky toffee pudding, much to his annoyance! 

Early the next morning the sun was shining – the perfect 

time for punting. Scudamore’s have a base near the hotel. 

We opted for a chauffeured trip – steering these flatbottomed 

boats yourself, using only a long pole, is fun but 

tricky. Our punter, Henry, was a local zoology graduate. 

He pointed out a couple of kingfisher nests along the 


Against the backdrop 

of a renowned collection 

experience critically acclaimed 

exhibitions of historical and 

contemporary art, lectures, 

concerts, workshops and 

events or indulge in our 

Garden Café. 

DON’T MISS 

Painted Love: Renaissance Marriage Portraits 

Until 1 October 2023 

Michael Simpson: Drawing towards Painting 

Until 17 September 2023 

Lucie Rie: The Adventure of Pottery 

14 July 2023 to 7 January 2024 

‘Without Hands’ The Art of Sarah Biffin 

29 September George 2023 Shaw to 14 January 2024 

A Corner of a Foreign Field 

Gwen John: Art and Life in London and Paris 

Édouard Vuillard 

27 October 

The 

2023 

Poetry 

to 14 

of 

April 

the Everyday 

2024 

2019 HIGHLIGHTS 

Against Lauren the backdrop Child of a renowned collection 

experience The critically Art of Illustration acclaimed exhibitions 

of historical Rembrandt 

contemporary art, lectures, 

concerts, 

A Life 

workshops 

in Print 

and events or indulge in 

our Garden Café 

Henri Matisse 

Master of Line 

Great Great Pulteney Pulteney Street, Street, Bath Bath BA2 BA2 4DB 4DB 

www.holburne.org 

STYLISH RETREATS IN THE UK’S HOTTEST LOCATIONS 

From cosying up fireside in a country cottage, to stargazing from a 

dreamy hot tub at your clifftop hideaway, escape the everyday and 

seek the magic of a staycation with Boutique Retreats. With over 

260 luxury abodes to choose from, uncover our curated collection 

of luxury retreats, set in unique locations across the UK. 

boutique-retreats.co.uk 

+44 (0)1872 553 491 

enquiries@boutique-retreats.co.uk

IMAGES © SHUTTERSTOCK / EMMA O'REILLY 

riverbank, a heron, some Canada Geese and ‘teenage’ 

swans, still with grey feathers amid the white. We sat 

back, enjoying seeing the colleges from the water, and 

listening to tales of the city and its landmarks, including 

The Bridge of Sighs (based on the one in Venice) and the 

Mathematical Bridge (curved, even though made up of 

only straight pieces of wood). 

The temperature was climbing now so, after a tasty 

lamb wrap from the daily food market (in Market Square) 

we walked to Grantchester. Hire a bike if you want to do 

it student style. This pretty village is famed as the former 

home of war poet Rupert Brooke, who partied here with 

the likes of Virginia Woolf, EM Forster and Betrand Russell. 

More recently it has been the setting for the popular 

TV series Grantchester. It's a pleasurable 45-minute or 

so meander alongside the river, past the college ‘Backs’ 

and with views over Grantchester Meadows. Our reward 

at the end was The Orchard Tea Garden, where it would 

have been rude not to indulge in cream tea while sitting in 

deckchairs under the shade of the apple trees. 

Dinner that evening was at The Folio Bar & Kitchen at 

the recently opened Fellows House hotel. It is just outside 

the main city drag but an easy 15-minute walk. It’s a buzzy, 

glamorous place, with divine cocktails and an inventive 

menu, including a wonderful choice of vegetarian and 

vegan dishes. I chose creamy burrata cheese with basil, 

grilled pears and tomatoes followed by meltingly good 

salt-aged fillet steak served with fries and portobello 

mushrooms. Another pudding snatch took place, this time 

with warm brownie and ice-cream. I’m still not forgiven. 

Double rooms at Varsity Hotel & Spa from £176 per 

night, including access to the spa and gym or from £225 to 

also include breakfast, varsityhotel.co.uk 

For more information on punting with Scudamore's visit 

scudamores.com or take a look at visitcambridge.org 


Sip and stay 

VINEYARD 

HOTELS 

Move over Napa and forget the South of France – we discover 

some of the UK’s most beautiful vineyards, where you can explore 

the vines, sample delicious wines, and spend a night or two… 

Text by Sophie Farrah

1Lympstone Manor 

With breathtaking views over the Exe Estuary, 

acclaimed chef Michael Caines MBE’s five-star luxury 

manor house hotel in Devon is home to 21 beautiful 

bedrooms, six luxurious shepherd's huts, a Michelinstarred 

restaurant and a stunning outdoor pool and ‘pool 

house’ brasserie. Caines’ passion for wine is fundamental 

to the Lympstone experience, with two basement cellars 

comprising 600 bins, a winetasting room and a small 

vineyard, which guests are encouraged to explore at their 

leisure, or on a guided tour in the summer months. Its very 

first creation is the Triassic Pinot Noir 2020, a deliciously 

fruity red wine, which guests can sample in the bar or 

restaurant(s). Several of the beautiful bedrooms and 

luxurious shepherd's huts have outdoor baths overlooking 

the vines, and with the vineyard's first sparkling wine 

expected in 2023, there’s never been a better time to visit… 

Rooms start at £360, lympstonemanor.co.uk

2 

Tinwood Estate 

Close to the cathedral city of Chichester in the 

heart of West Sussex, Tinwood Estate has a 

reputation for producing fabulous sparkling 

wines. With views over the vines, three deluxe lodges blend 

effortlessly into the rural surroundings. Each one contains 

an extra-large king-size bed facing floor-to-ceiling doors, 

which fully open onto a private deck. There’s also a huge 

bathroom with a walk-in rain shower and a two-person 

Jacuzzi bath complete with a TV. A welcome crate contains 

tea, coffee, fresh milk, and – most importantly – a bottle 

of Tinwood’s delicious wine and some homemade nibbles. 

Behind the lodges amid the trees is a barrel sauna for guest 

use, and the vineyard’s chic, contemporary tasting room 

and terrace is only a few yards away. Spring 2023 saw the 

arrival of a new on-site restaurant, which dishes up modern 

British tapas using local seasonal produce. 

From £245 per night, tinwoodestate.com 


3Oxney Estate 

At its picture-perfect Soil Association–certified 

vineyard in East Sussex, Oxney is the largest 

single-estate producer of English organic 

wine. Its 35 acres of vines produce around 20% of all 

organic grapes grown in the UK. Vineyard, winery and 

tasting tours take place all year-round, with the option 

to add a picnic lunch of local cheeses and Oxney’s 

very own charcuterie, all packed up in a rustic willow 

basket. Accommodation is similarly thoughtful; the 

stunning Vineyard House sleeps ten. An old farmhouse 

filled with quirky, characterful original features, it has 

been decorated in a stylish and serene Nordic style. 

Alternatively, there are two similarly stylish shepherd's 

huts that overlook the vines; each has a double bed, small 

kitchen, bathroom and a lovely outside space, as well as a 

complimentary bottle of Oxney’s delicious organic wine. 

Huts from £105 (two-night minimum stay), Vineyard House 

from £997 (three-night minimum stay), oxneyestate.com 

4 

Three Choirs Vineyard 

In Gloucestershire, Three Choirs is one of 

England's oldest vineyards. Today there are 75 

acres of beautiful and abundant vines here, 

which make Three Choirs’ award-winning wines. It is 

also home to a state-of-the-art winery and eight light 

and airy bedrooms, with super king beds and private 

patios overlooking the vine-clad valley. A recent addition 

is three luxurious lodges; glass-walled and wood-framed, 

each one has a veranda on two sides with stunning views 

of the landscape, while a tempting roll-top bath awaits 

inside. Regular tours and tastings take place and, if you’re 

feeling peckish, head to the brasserie for some tapasstyle 

small plates, and a bottle of Gloucestershire’s finest. 

Rooms start at £185, three-choirs-vineyards.co.uk 


5 

Ryedale Vineyards 

Lovingly run by the Fletcher family at the foot of 

the Yorkshire Wolds, Ryedale Vineyards is one of 

the most northerly commercial vineyards in the 

UK. Here, all aspects of wine production, from pruning 

and harvesting to pressing, fermenting, bottling and 

labelling are carried out by hand in a converted byre. 

Home to over 18,000 vines, the vineyard can be explored 

in an informal guided tour that also includes a visit to 

the winery and an opportunity to try Ryedale’s wines and 

ciders with a selection of local cheeses. After all that, you 

might need a lie down. Thankfully, there are two beautiful 

bedrooms, located in a chocolate-box farmhouse; Fox is a 

cosy room is tucked away in the eaves, and Pheasant has 

beautiful views over the Wolds. A full Yorkshire breakfast 

is included, and guests are welcome to help themselves to 

Ryedale’s tasty wines from the honesty bar. 

Rooms start at £130, ryedalevineyards.co.uk 

6 

Castlewood Vineyard 

This beautiful boutique vineyard sits on the edge 

of the Axe Valley in East Devon and specialises in 

producing sparkling and still wines made by minimal 

interventional methods. Nestled beneath the ancient hill 

fort of Musbury Castle, Castlewood is lovingly tended to by 

the Corbett Family, who follow the philosophy of quality not 

quantity; their small batch wines undergo no filtration and are 

left to clarify naturally. The vineyard is also home to Newhouse 

and Wonover – two Grade 2-listed holiday cottages set in 

spacious, pretty gardens with gorgeous views. Both sleep six 

and have lovely period features, whilst Wonover also boats a 

wood-fired hot tub. But for a truly unique experience, book 

the Bluebird Bus – a former 1970’s Canadian school bus that 

has been lovingly converted into a completely private and 

ingeniously designed off grid getaway, complete with double 

bed, kitchen, bathroom, spacious living area and countryside 

views. Guests are encouraged to drop by the cellar door, 

wander up to the vineyards and enjoy a glass of Castlewood 

amongst the vines. 

Wonover £742-£2467, Newhouse £679-£1883, Bluebird 

Bus £470-£836 (all per week, short breaks available on 

request), castlewoodvineyard.co.uk 

IMAGES © GEORGE CHESTERTON 


7Wild Escapes 

Tucked away in the woods of Black Chalk Vineyard 

in Hampshire, Wild Escapes have created four 

stunning treehouses – the first ever to be built on 

a vineyard in the UK. Crafted using local materials and 

techniques that minimise their effect on the local land, 

each one looks out over rows and rows of picturesque vines. 

Inside, there are chic Scandi-style interiors, a luxurious 

double bed, a welcome hamper, a contemporary kitchen, 

and vast windows throughout, making the most of the 

stunning views. Outside on the terrace there’s a huge zinc 

bath – a perfect spot for sipping on a glass of chilled fizz 

made from the vines visible from the tub. If you can bear to 

tear yourself away, you might like to head over to the winery 

for lunch or a guided tasting. 

From £274 per night, wildescapes.com 


8 

Tillingham 

Set amid 70 acres of rolling hills and woodlands 

near Rye in East Sussex, Tillingham Winery offers 

natural wine, seasonal food, and a choice of 

stylish accommodation. In what was formerly a hop barn, 

there are now 11 serene bedrooms with stunning views 

across the estate and original Victorian farmstead. All are 

beautiful, but Room 11, with its freestanding bathtub, is 

particularly special. In the summer months, two smart bell 

tents are erected in a peaceful, private spot behind the oast 

house; each one containing a king-size bed, private terrace, 

log burner, and fire pit. 

Once you’ve unpacked, explore the vineyard and sample 

the delicious wines made here on a guided tour and tasting, 

before tucking into wood-fired pizza in the barn, or the fourcourse 

garden menu in Tillingham’s beautiful field-to-fork 

restaurant. 

Rooms start at £165, tillingham.com 


9 

Denbies Wine Estate 

With 265 stunning acres and a production 

capacity of one million bottles, Denbies is one 

of England's largest single-estate vineyards. 

Located just outside the historic market town of Dorking 

in Surrey, it’s also home to a 17-bedroom hotel, Vineyard 

Restaurant and ‘Wine Library’, all with fabulous views of 

the vines and surrounding Surrey Hills. Various vineyard 

tours and tastings take place daily, including The Secret 

Vineyard Tasting Trail, which is exclusively for hotel guests 

and a unique opportunity to explore areas of the vineyard 

not normally accessible to the general public. For a Napa 

Valley–esque experience, book one of the restaurant’s 

private cabanas for dinner, and enjoy locally sourced 

produce and wine produced on the estate while looking 

out across the vineyard. 

Rooms start at £170, denbies.co.uk 


IMAGES © WOJCIECH KETZ / CHRIS SNOOK PHOTOGRAPHY / VIVIENNE BLAKEY 

10 

Rathfinny 

Renowned for producing some of the very 

best English sparkling wine in the world, 

Rathfinny Wine Estate in Sussex has 

also recently achieved B Corp status, meaning that its 

environmental and social impact is of the upmost priority. 

Its award-winning B&B is located in The Flint Barns – a 

cluster of characterful buildings. Here, guests can enjoy 

the picture-perfect landscape among contemporary, 

cosy furnishings; there are ten comfortable en-suite 

bedrooms, some with vineyard views, and there’s also a 

sleek restaurant, terrace, and cosy lounge area. Outside, 

guests can enjoy a glass of ‘Sussex Sparkling’ in the pretty 

courtyard, or on top of the open bank that overlooks the 

neat rows of vines. Vineyard and winery tours take place 

all year-round, and no stay would be complete without a 

portfolio tasting, where you’re able to try Rathfinny’s range 

of delicious Sussex wines and spirits. 

Rooms start at £110, rathfinnyestate.com 



THE WONDER 

of 

WATERFALLS 

Beautiful to behold, the frothing, fizzing, foaming flow of a waterfall is one 

of nature’s most impressive spectacles. Here are some of Britain’s best... 

Text by Adrienne Wyper 

Standing by a waterfall, watching the endlessly 

falling whitewater and listening to that rushing, 

roaring, thundering sound, in awe of its power, is 

an uplifting experience. And it’s beneficial, too. 

The air around waterfalls has the highest concentration 

of negative ions found in nature. These are atmospheric 

molecules charged with electricity, and exposure to them 

can ease stress, regulate mood and even reduce depression. 

Watching the unceasing cascade down is mesmerising, 

as is the ‘white noise’ sound, used in sleep apps for its 

soothing and relaxing properties. Although the water flow 

may not be at its fiercest in the summer months, it’s the 

best time to be spritzed with that fresh, cooling spray – 

and to enter the world behind the waterfall and gaze out 

through that misty curtain. 

the Old Norse word for waterfall. Follow the waterfall 

trail from the National Trust car park for the best view 

of the walls and the two stone bridges arching over the 

plummeting water. In the 1780s the Howard family of 

Greystoke Castle landscaped the area around the Force, 

planting over half a million trees, and creating a network 

of bridges and paths. Around a quarter of a mile higher up 

is another fall, High Force. 

North England 

Thundering 65ft down a craggy rock face is Aira Force in 

Cumbria, formed by Aira Beck (stream) making its way 

down the fells to Ullswater. ‘Force’ or ‘foss’ comes from 


LEAD IMAGE PREVIOUS PAGE: ADMIRE ONE OF SCOTLAND’S 

MOST SPECTACULAR – AND MOST PHOTOGRAPHED – 

WATERFALLS, BRACKLINN FALLS, FROM THE RECENTLY 

RESTORED WEATHERED-STEEL FOOTBRIDGE THAT SPANS ITS 

WOODED GORGE ABOVE CALLANDER, NEAR LOCH LOMOND 

‘ 

This awe-inspiring 70ft cascade, where 

the River Tees plunges over a vertical 

cliff of blocky whinstone, is the UK’s 

largest volume of water falling over an 

unbroken drop, when in full spate. 

’ 

Much more impressive than its more westerly namesake 

is County Durham’s High Force. This awe-inspiring 70ft 

cascade, where the River Tees plunges over a vertical cliff 

of blocky whinstone, is the UK’s largest volume of water 

falling over an unbroken drop, when in full spate. The 

stunning view was painted by JMW Turner in 1816. The 

north side is privately owned and you have to pay to walk 

to the falls, but approach from The Pennine Way on the 

south side for free access. Walk around two miles from 

Bowlees Visitor Centre, across the suspension footbridge, 

to go along the river via Low Force – as the name suggests, 

not as high! – up to High Force. 

The easy-to-follow walk to Hareshaw Linn (‘linn’ is old 

dialect for waterfall), near Bellingham in Northumberland 

National Park, passes through a formerly industrial 

landscape, now reclaimed by nature. The path winds up 

the damp, deep gorge, lush with ferns, mosses, liverworts 

and lichen cloaking damp boulders and branches, 

crossing Hareshaw Burn, a tributary of the North Tyne, via 

six bridges, offering beautiful views of the bubbling burn 

beneath. By the sixth bridge there is a tree stump studded 

with coins, for good luck. Follow the sound around the 

bend, down stone-slab steps to the Linn, tumbling down 

over the 30ft sandstone cliff to the pool below. 

The Peak District National Park has plenty of waterfalls. 

Fair Brook flows down the lower slopes of Kinder Scout, 

the region’s highest point at 2800ft (famed for the ‘mass 

trespass’ of 1932, when walkers took to the hill to protest 

against lack of access), with several waterfalls as well as 

natural pools – some deep enough for a dip if you fancy a 

wild swim as well as a walk. Kinder Downfall is the region’s 

highest waterfall, at 98ft. Its flow can be temperamental, 

but in windy conditions it appears to flow upwards! 


South West England 

On the North Devon coast near Hartland, and accessible on 

foot via the South West Coast Path, you can enjoy the rare, 

spectacular sight of white, tumbling waters on a coastal 

cliff. In a ruggedly beautiful area of hanging valleys and 

high cliffs, Speke’s Mill Mouth waterfall drops 157ft over a 

sheer cliff edge, then tumbles downward over boulders onto 

the rock-slabbed beach to meet the sea. 

At the head of the Bride Valley in Dorset lie the 

thatched cottages of the picturesque village of 

Littlebredy. (It really is little, too: population around 

100.) As part of Bridehead House’s 19th-century 

garden redesign, the river was dammed to create a 

lake and from here it flows through the grounds then 

gushes noisily over a drop. 

Pack a picnic to enjoy on the expansive adjoining 

grassy area, then paddle in the river. Scramble up 

behind the fall to gaze over the lake and snap the 

perfect shot from the little stone footbridge behind. 

South East England 

The southeast of England is not renowned for its 

mountains, so waterfalls are, naturally, hard to find. 

The next best thing is the constructed Grand Cascade 

within the grounds of Blenheim Palace, designed by the 

renownedly naturalistic landscape gardener Lancelot 

‘Capability’ Brown in the 1760s. Now a Unesco World 

Heritage Site, it forms part of a complex dam structure at 

the western end of the lake he created across the 


‘ 

On the Isle of Skye beneath the Black Cuillins are the famous Fairy Pools. 

This series of small falls are renowned for colour and clarity: turquoise so clear that 

you can pick out mossy pebbles in the depths. Some are swimmable – brrr! 

’ 

estate, with a delicate arched bridge offering the perfect 

photo opportunity. Home to the Dukes of Marlborough, 

Blenheim is the former home of Sir Winston Churchill, who 

was born here. 

Scotland 

We may have poet Robert Burns to thank for the 

gorgeously wooded landscape at the Falls of Bruar at 

the southern edge of the Cairngorms National Park, 

in Perthshire. When he visited in 1787, Burns found the 

surroundings somewhat bare and was inspired to write 

The Humble Petition of Bruar Water to the landowner, the 

4th Duke of Atholl. Written from the water’s viewpoint, 

it entreats: ‘Would then my noble master please/ 

To grant my highest wishes/He’ll shade my banks wi’ 

tow’ring trees/And bonie spreading bushes.’ The Duke 

took Burns’s advice and, in an innovative forerunner of 

modern seed bombs, he fired Scots pine and larch seeds 

from the opposite bank from a cannon. The lowest fall 

of peat-brown water through the forested rocky gorge 

has an arched stone bridge, and a natural rock span just 

downstream. 


Around the Falls of Clyde in this species-rich wooded 

gorge, near New Lanark, southeast of Glasgow, you might 

spot kingfishers, dippers and ravens, with swooping bats, 

badgers and even otters. But the main attractions are the 

four waterfalls within four miles. At 88ft high, Corra Linn 

is the second one you’ll see, and the most spectacular. It 

was described by William Wordsworth as ‘the Clyde’s most 

majestic daughter’. Located by the falls is the most famous 

Scottish country clothing brand, House of Bruar, which 

houses a fabulous food hall perfect for picnic essentials. 

Just upstream is Scotland’s first hydroelectric power station, 

harnessing the power of the falls to power textile mills in 

New Lanark, completed in 1927. 

On the Isle of Skye beneath the Black Cuillins are the 

famous Fairy Pools. This series of small falls are renowned 

for colour and clarity: turquoise so clear that you can pick 

out mossy pebbles in the depths. Some are swimmable – 

brrr! Further north is Mealt Falls, which cliff-dives from Loch 

Mealt to the rocky coast below. From here you can also see 

Kilt Rock, with its pleated-effect basalt folds. 

Northern Ireland 

Near Ballymena, Co Antrim, in Glenariff, largest of the 

nine glens of Antrim, are no fewer than nine viewing points 

for three waterfalls on a choice of four walking routes. All 

are clearly waymarked, with wooden fenced boardwalks 

incorporating flights of steps that allow close-up views of 

the falls, where white froth and foam contrasts against the 

dark waters, the lush foliage lining the gorge, and possibly 

even local wildlife such as red squirrels, hen harriers and 

Irish hares. At the top of the walkable area enjoy more 

expansive views down to the Irish Sea and across it to the 

Mull of Kintyre in Scotland. 


‘ 

Sgwd yr Eira... which means ‘waterfall of snow', is the best known... not least because 

you can experience the thrill of walking behind the cascading curtain of water. 

’ 

Wales 

In Bannau Brycheiniog (previously known as the Brecon 

Beacons) National Park is an area known as ‘waterfall 

country’, with Britain's greatest concentration of 

cascades, caves and gorgeous gorges. The Four Falls Trail 

takes in Sgwd (Welsh for ‘waterfall’) Clun-Gwyn, Sgwd 

Isaf Clun-Gwyn, Sgwd y Pannwr and Sgwd yr Eira. The 

last, which means ‘waterfall of snow’, is the best known, 

most popular, and the most photographed – not least 

because you can experience the thrill of walking behind 

the cascading curtain of water. Be prepared: you’ll almost 

certainly get wet on the rough and slippery path used by 

sheep farmers – but it’s worth it! 

Pistyll Rhaeadr, meaning ‘spring of the waterfall’, lies 

in the Berwyn Mountains, just inside Wales, in Powys, west 

of Oswestry and Shrewsbury at the end of a narrow singletrack 

road. At 240ft high, it’s often hailed as Britain’s 

highest single-drop waterfall, although some argue that 

the drop is in three stages… Either way it’s a breathtaking 

sight: a narrow white ribbon falling behind a water-hewn 

stone arch. From the top you can see Snowdonia to the 

west and the hills of Shropshire to the east. 

IMAGES © VISITSCOTLAND/KENNY LAM / SHUTTERSTOCK/ANDREW-SWINBANK /BILLY 

STOCK / ADOBE STOCK/FEDERICA VIOLIN/ALLOUPHOTO / VISITBRITAIN/PETE SEAWARD/ 

VISITSCOTLAND/KENNY LAM/RICHARD ELLIOT / VISITWALES 


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THE PEAK 

DISTRICT 

and 

DERBYSHIRE'S FOODIE TRAIL 


Earn your calories by hiking and biking your way around the 

Peak District and stop along the way to indulge in the area’s Bakewell 

pudding, gingerbread, artisan cheese, and gourmet meals 

Text by Jane Knight 

As cycle routes go, they don’t come much more 

scenic than this. My son and I are peddling along 

the impressive limestone gorge formed by the 

River Wye, which circumnavigates 300ft Chee 

Tor. Our track is the old Midland Railway, which stopped 

functioning in 1968, leaving a flat route with views of the 

surrounding countryside as well as from the magnificent 

Monsal Viaduct. 

the jam instead. His lack of stirring caused quite a stir; 

the candlemaker’s wife, Mrs Wilson, heard how well the 

botched pudding had gone down, obtained its recipe, and 

made the sweet treats from her 17th-century cottage, now 

the Pudding Shop. 

They still make them here by hand, according to the 

original secret recipe, though they’ll share it with you if you 

sign up for a pudding-making session. Or, like us, you can 

just tuck into one in the tearoom. With a bit of custard or 

cream it slips down a treat after all that cycling (you can 

even accompany it with Bakewell Pudding gin or cider). 

Along the Monsal Trail’s eight and a half miles are a 

series of well-lit tunnels, some about a quarter of a mile 

long, where temperatures seemingly dip to within a degree 

of a dementor’s breath. 

The end of the line is Bakewell, and where better to 

stop for a little sustenance than The Old Original Bakewell 

Pudding Shop. Yes, Bakewell Pudding, not tart, which, as 

our waitress tells us with a smile, is “something invented by 

Mr Kipling”. 

The pastry, jam and almond pudding was created by 

accident in 1860 at a local inn, when the cook neglected 

to stir the egg mixture into the pastry so spread it atop 


That’s the beauty of the Peak District: you can earn 

your calories by hiking and biking, then cash them in on all 

the amazing food and drink in the vicinity. And you’ll be 

surprised by how much there is. 

Just a four-minute cycle from Bakewell is Thornbridge 

Brewery, where the delicious tasting of six craft beers might put 

a wobble in your wheels. Their first bitter, Lord Marples, was 

produced using a secondhand 10-barrel kit in the grounds of 

co-owner Jim Harrison’s Thornbridge Hall in 2005. 

Now made in a new brewery, the beer is exported to 35 

countries around the world. The convivial taproom sells 

pizzas with beer in their dough as well as a multitude of 

different brews. They include the flagship Jaipur IPA (yeast 

used in its production is used by another drinks producer 

in Derbyshire, White Peak Distillery; its Wire Works single 

malt and Shining Cliff gin can be sipped after a tour of their 

Belper factory). 

If your eyelids are starting to feel heavy after all the 

eating, drinking and exercise, take heart – there are 

two excellent foodie hotels within a 10-minute drive of 

Thornbridge: The Peacock at Rowsley and The Cavendish 

at Baslow. 

As we find, there is more feasting to be had at both, 

starting in the Peacock’s beamed bar with its settles, open 

fire and small alcove where a sparkling peacock image is 

emblazoned on the wall tiles. Here, we tuck into delicious 

hot sourdough and treacle bread as we enjoy a pre-dinner 

drink (try the Swift Nick or Bakewell Best, which are brewed 

locally). 


‘ 

Better still, you can hike between the two hotels on a 90-minute scenic route 

that leads along the River Derwent right in front of the stately pile itself. That 

means that if you want to base yourself in one hotel rather than both, you can 

easily head out on foot and have lunch in the other 

’ 

The main event is served on original Mouseman tables 

in the dark-green dining room, and it’s superb. My starter of 

scallop with seaweed and tempura cauliflower is perfectly 

cooked, followed by the tastiest of vegetarian wellingtons 

with mushrooms on the side. My son, meanwhile, 

rhapsodises over his beautifully cooked and seasoned estate 

venison. 

It’s equally as good at The Cavendish at Baslow, the 

Duke and Duchess of Devonshire’s hotel, where we devour 

delicious starters of tuna with seaweed and glazed pork 

cheek before moving onto roast celeriac cannelloni (me) 

and a exquisite taste of Chatsworth beef (him). Better still, 

in the airy, thoughtfully designed bedrooms with views over 

rolling fields, there’s a generous supply of luxury Chatsworth 

biscuits should you get the midnight munchies. 

Breakfast at both hotels runs the gamut from toasted 

bacon sandwich or baked avocado to kippers and a full 

English, ideal to fuel a yomp on the 1,000-acre Chatsworth 

Estate parkland created by Capability Brown. There’s plenty 

to see as well as the magnificent house itself, including the 

One Arch Bridge close to a ruined mill, and Queen Mary’s 

Bower, a stone platform built when Mary Queen of Scots 

was held at Chatsworth. 

Better still, you can hike between the two hotels on a 

90-minute scenic route that leads along the River Derwent 

right in front of the stately pile itself. That means that if you 

want to base yourself in one hotel rather than both, you can 

easily head out on foot and have lunch in the other. Be sure, 

too, to visit the Chatsworth farm shop with its estate beef 

and venison among its offerings, as well as rose-pink gin. 

Another day, another cycle route. This one, the 

Tissington Trail, starts in Ashbourne, where the timberframed 

Ashbourne Gingerbread Shop is a superb place to 

stock up with treats for the trail. Made by hand on a daily 

basis from a recipe that was allegedly supplied by French 

prisoners of war billeted in the town during the Napoleonic 

Wars, the gingerbread people are deliciously buttery with 

just a hint of spice. They’re a bargain at a pound a pop and 

perfect for a scooby snack on the hoof. 


‘ 

Although we’ve had the cheese course, our foodie journey isn’t over, for the 

complete experience, we decide to add cutlery and crockery to the mix... we can 

see why the late David Mellor was nicknamed the ‘cutlery king 

’ 

While the Tissington Trail may not be as scenic as 

the Monsal trail, and it has a distinct uphill incline as you 

head north towards Parsley Hay on the 13-mile route, its 

advantage is that you can leave it at Thorpe, cycle through 

the village to Dovedale car park, then enjoy a stroll through 

the vale, with its famous stepping stones. 

Or keep going north and veer off the trail at the end 

to Hartington, a pretty village in the Dales that feels like 

a prosperous market town, complete with a duck pond. 

There are proper meals on offer at the Devonshire Arms, 

but I recommend stocking up for an impromptu picnic at the 

quaint Old Cheese Shop, which sells a tasty range from the 

nearby Hartington Creamery. The Dovedale Blue is good, 

as is the Peakland White with chilli, but my vote goes to the 

Hartington Stilton, creamier and less crumbly than other 

Stiltons. 

“We cut into a new 8kg Stilton every day,” says owner 

Chris Roberts, relating that Derbyshire’s Stilton was 

originally produced in the Duke of Devonshire’s creamery 

in 1900 and later held a warrant to King George V in the 

1930s. “That really put Hartington on the map although the 

stilton production has now gone from industrial to artisan.” 

Although we’ve had the cheese course, our foodie 

journey isn’t over, for the complete experience, we decide 

to add cutlery and crockery to the mix. First up, we visit The 

David Mellor Country Shop at Hathersage for a fascinating 

tour around the cutting-edge round factory, designed by Sir 

Michael Hopkins. Perusing the range of cutlery in the Design 

Museum, from the cutlery used by Sir Ranulph Fiennes 

on his Transglobe Expedition to that used as ceremonial 

tableware in Downing Street, we can see why the late David 

Mellor was nicknamed the ‘cutlery king’. 

He didn’t confine himself to cutlery, though – many 

items synonymous with the typical British street scene were 

designed by him, including bus shelters, traffic lights, litter 

bins and postboxes, which are all on show here. There’s 

superb food too in the Riverside Kitchen, a cafe where 

everything was designed by David’s son Corin, with a menu 

of superb soups, salads and sourdough sandwiches. 

IMAGES © STEVE BUCKLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK / VISIT PEAK DISTRICT & DERBYSHIRE 


Work it all off with a walk at nearby Stanage Edge, 

channelling your inner Keira Knightley from the Pride & 

Prejudice film as you gaze over the stunning views of the 

Dark Peak moorlands. 

To add crockery to our cutlery, our final stop is Denby 

Pottery Village, about an hour south. Unlike many 

potteries, they source clay locally here and produce their 

own glazes. On a tour, we see just how many stages 

there are in the production process – the decorated 

mugs, for instance, take three weeks to make and pass 

through 25 different pairs of hands. 

We gaze into the flames in the 164ft kiln, one of nine 

on site, and watch a specialist potter make it all look 

easy before we try to make our own creations on the 

potter’s wheel. 

All I’ll say is that it’s nowhere near as easy as it looks. In 

future, I’m definitely sticking to eating from dishes rather 

than making them. 

Jane Knight and her son were guests of Visit 

Peak District & Derbyshire on a foodie trail. Rooms 

at The Peacock at Rowsley cost from £175, B&B; 

thepeacockatrowsley.com. Rooms at The Cavendish at 

Baslow cost from £216, B&B; devonshirehotels.co.uk. 

For more information go to visitpeakdistrict.com. 


Competition time! 

WIN a HOTEL STAY 

Enter our competition to win one of four two-night luxury hotel 

stays, with breakfast each morning and a delightful dinner... 

Selected far and wide from different hidden corners 

of the UK, PoB Hotels (a collection of the finest 

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staying in one of four idyllic locations. 

Combining peace and quiet with plenty of space 

and stunning interiors, each hotel, one from England, 

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Palé Hall, Wales 

Cromlix, Scotland 

Stay in a Manor House Room with a 

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the Henry Robertson dining room. 

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From castles brimming with 

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Prize is to be taken before 30 April 

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Year, Valentines and Easter weekend. 


Glorious 

GOODWOOD 

When you hear the word Goodwood, perhaps you think of 

motorsports, horse racing or even golf, and you’d be right, but there is 

so much more to this remarkable estate than its sporting attractions alone 

Text by Sophie Farrah 

Over the course of the year, the estate plays host to 

several world-famous events; first up is the Festival of 

Speed – motorsports' ultimate summer garden party. 

Next is the Qatar Goodwood Festival – also known as 

‘Glorious Goodwood’ – a thrilling week of horse racing at 

the estate’s racecourse, which is renowned for being the 

most beautiful in the country. September sees Goodwood 

Revival; the only historic race meeting in the world that is 

staged entirely to a period theme, and is as much about 

Tucked away in the beautiful rolling folds of West 

Sussex, the 12,000-acre Goodwood Estate has 

been the family seat of the Dukes of Richmond 

since 1697. Today, alongside its reputation 

as England’s greatest sporting estate, it is home to an 

elegant hotel, self-catering cottages, restaurants, a farm 

shop, health club and more, plus miles of walking trails 

and a plethora of extraordinary experiences, making it a 

truly remarkable place to spend a weekend (or longer...), 

as I was lucky enough to discover… 


At the heart of the estate proudly sits Goodwood 

House, which is undoubtedly one of the finest stately 

homes in England today. As the residence of the Duke 

and Duchess of Richmond and Gordon, this captivating 

country house offers both historic opulence and the 

recreating the fashion and culture of the postwar years 

as it is about historic racecars. The year 2023 is also a 

particularly special one for the estate as it celebrates 

Goodwood 75, which marks several anniversaries, 

including 75 years since the renowned Goodwood 

Motor Circuit opened in 1948. If you’re not able to visit 

during one of these extraordinary events, then fear not; 

Goodwood has plenty to offer all year-round. 


charm and warmth of a family home. Much like the rest 

of the estate, the house is immaculately well-kept. Unlike 

the faded grandeur of many similar historic properties, it 

oozes Regency splendour and is pristine throughout. 

The beautiful Yellow Drawing Room is adorned with rich 

golden silk and full-length family portraits, while the lavish 

Egyptian Dining Room, still used for entertaining today, is 

a masterclass in decorative opulence. 


‘ 

With views that stretch across the estate to Chichester and the sparkling sea on the 

horizon beyond, this elegant yet cosy property offers the rare peace, privacy, and 

seclusion of staying on the estate itself, while feeling like a home away from home. 

’ 

On certain days of the week, knowledgeable guides 

lead tours around the impressive property, taking in 

roaring fires, historic furniture, royal artefacts and one of 

the most significant private art collections in the country, 

featuring works by the likes of Van Dyck and Canaletto. 

Tours are followed by a scrumptious traditional 

afternoon tea served in the magnificent Ballroom; 

designed in the French style of Louis XV, its tall walls 

are lined with lavish red wallpaper and an astonishing 

array of artworks in opulent gold frames. Evocative 

classical music gently plays as delicious loose-leaf tea 

from Cornwall and glasses of chilled English sparkling 

wine are served alongside pillow-soft finger sandwiches, 

homemade fruit scones, and an assortment of delectable 

cakes and pastries, all made using organic produce from 

Goodwood’s very own Home Farm. It is an unforgettably 

splendid experience. 

Further elegant interiors can be found across the estate. 

In addition to the 91-bedroom, four-star Goodwood Hotel, 

visitors can stay in Hound Lodge, a luxurious 10-bedroom 

country retreat, complete with its own butler and private 

chef; or make themselves at home in the estate’s most recent 

addition, The Pheasantry. It's a picture-perfect Palladianstyle 

hideaway that sits just behind Goodwood House, 

within the gated parkland of the estate. True to its name, it 

is surrounded by handsome game birds that strut around 

the surrounding fields, adding to the beautiful backdrop of 

quintessential English countryside. With views that stretch 

across the estate to Chichester and the sparkling sea on the 

horizon beyond, this elegant yet cosy property offers the rare 

peace, privacy, and seclusion of staying on the estate itself, 

while feeling like a home away from home. 

Inside, there’s a sleek, contemporary kitchen with 

dining area, a cosy living room with a working fireplace, 

three beautiful bedrooms and a large master bathroom 

complete with rich blue tiles, a clawfoot bath and lovely 

views over the enormous private garden. 

There are also plenty of charming touches, such as a 

welcome hamper filled with local produce, and even a 


‘ 

If you can tear yourself away from the comfort of the cottage, Goodwood’s Health 

Club is just a short walk away, where you can take a dip in the swimming pool... 

unwind in the steam room or sauna, or indulge in a restorative treatment 

’ 

plush dog bed, bowls and a treat tin, so that pampered 

pooches can unwind in style too. 

If you can tear yourself away from the comfort of the 

cottage, Goodwood’s Health Club is just a short walk 

away, where you can take a dip in the swimming pool, 

work out in the state-of-the-art gym, unwind in the steam 

room or sauna, or indulge in a restorative treatment. 

The signature Wellbeing Face & Body Infusion – 60 

heavenly minutes of muscle-melting massage combined 

with an exceptionally good facial – is an incredibly 

effective stressbuster. 

Goodwood’s impressive wellness offering extends to 

residential retreats that focus on the likes of gut health, 

menopause, and the Wim Hof technique. There’s also a 

busy schedule of fitness and wellbeing classes, including 

yoga, Pilates, sound-healing sessions and more, while 

guests are also encouraged to head outside and enjoy 

the natural beauty of the estate. Hand-illustrated maps 

outline beautiful walking trails, as well as forest-bathing 

opportunities, bird-watching hot spots, and more. 

Having worked up an appetite, the estate’s award-winning 

flagship restaurant, Farmer, Butcher, Chef is a perfect 

place to refuel. Located just yards from Goodwood Home 

Farm, one of the largest lowland organic farms in the UK, 

the restaurant's menu makes full use of the exceptional 

ingredients produced here. 

Served amid eclectic artwork and rustic pub interiors, 

generous Butcher’s Boards highlight different cuts of 

estate-reared beef, pork, and lamb, while other dishes 

champion seasonal fish, vegetables, and more. 

Be sure to leave room for pudding – the wonderful 

cheese trolley offers a terrific selection of delicious British 

varieties, including some made on the estate, and the 

apple crumble soufflé is not to be missed. 

Guests of The Pheasantry are also granted access to 

Goodwood’s chic private members’ club, The Kennels, 

which once housed the Duke of Richmond’s hunting 

IMAGES © JAYSON FONG / ALEX BENWELL / STEPHEN HAYWARD / MIKE CALDWELL 


hounds and is now a stylish and sophisticated spot for 

a drink or a meal with fabulous views across the estate. 

Keep an eye out for the shelves of blue-and-white dog 

bowls that line the elegant entrance hall – these are for 

The Kennels’ four-legged members, who each get their 

own bowl hand-painted with his or her name, while their 

membership fee is donated to charity. 

If you’d like to make full use of The Pheasantry’s wellappointed 

kitchen, the estate’s small but perfectly formed 

Farm Shop stocks a multitude of mostly local ingredients that 

can be whipped up into a delicious dinner, including meat 

and dairy from the estate and bottles of Goodwood’s very 

own craft gin and beer. There’s also an impressive sushi menu, 

courtesy of Little Fish’s ‘Sushi in the Sticks’ service, created by 

Michelin-trained, multi-award-winning chef Neil Witney. 

Of course, no trip to Goodwood would be complete 

without just a taste of its sporting activities. Like a 

Disneyland for grownups (but with fewer rides and far 

more sophistication...), there's a thrilling choice of oncein-a-lifetime 

experiences that can be arranged. Channel 

your inner Tiger Woods with a round of golf on one of the 

stunning courses – the beautifully designed 1930s-style golf 

buggies are an unforgettable experience in themselves. 

Thrill-seekers can take to the sky in a helicopter, small 

aircraft or even a historic Spitfire at the Goodwood 

Aerodrome, or hit the tarmac in a driving experience at the 

historic Motor Circuit, where you can get behind the wheel 

of some beautiful classic cars or put more modern highperformance 

vehicles through their paces. For something 

truly unique, not to mention incredibly good fun, why not 

‘embrace the bounce’ and go off-roading in one of the 

estate’s brilliant classic Land Rovers from the 1960s? 

Nearby, the historic cathedral city of Chichester and 

the South Downs await, as do the stunning sand dunes 

of The Witterings, but when staying on this charismatic 

estate, you might find it hard to leave. 

Goodwood prides itself on a ‘passion for excellence’ 

and this ethos is evident throughout, from the charming 

and efficient team who work there, to the immaculate 

facilities and stunning surroundings. This, combined with 

its fascinating history and sense of sophisticated fun, really 

does make a stay at Goodwood truly glorious. 

The Pheasantry is a luxury self-catering holiday cottage 

sleeping up to six people and is priced from £1,275 for a 

three-night weekend stay, goodwood.com 


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STAY IN A COASTAL 

CORNISH COTTAGE 

Your chance to win! 

Trevanion Cottage is a beautiful Cornish cottage overlooking 

Coverack, one of Cornwall's most picturesque fishing villages 

Who doesn’t love a coastal 

bolthole with sea views? 

British Travel Journal has 

teamed up with Cornish 

Gems, the home of extraordinary holidays 

in Cornwall, to offer you the chance to 

win a three-night stay in this stunning 

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just a stone’s throw from the beach and 

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WATERGATE BAY 

beach lofts 

The beach is your back garden, 

the sea is your playground, and 

the loft suites are your luxurious 

hangout, where you can gaze 

at professional-surfers through 

floor-to-ceiling glass, as though 

you’re standing right there on 

the golden sands... 

Text by Jessica Way 

W 

hen Watergate Bay Hotel named its 

newest accommodation The Beach Lofts, 

they weren’t kidding – they are quite 

literally aloft from the sand, elevated to 

enhance the picture-perfect views, with private access to 

the seashore. 

The pristine sandy beach is the star attraction of 

Watergate Bay. So, to be one of the special guests staying 

in a loft suite (there are just seven in total) – with its stone’s 

throw proximity – permits exclusive 24/7 access, even after 

the crowds have departed. 

It feels like it’s yours, entirely yours, to enjoy in total 

tranquillity... seeing the sunset over the sparkling ocean with 

no one else there to break the view or steal the moment. 

And it’s captivating; watching and listening to the 

peaceful sounds of the waves, an endless flow of water 

lapping onto the shore. Swinging gently from the hanging 

sofa in the loft suite, mesmerised by the Atlantic Ocean, 

it’s easy to fall into an almost meditative state – you feel 

happier, healthier, calmer and connected to the landscape. 

But, the glistening turquoise of the awakening Atlantic 

Ocean is not just there to be admired, of course. 

Watergate Bay is a surfers’ paradise, and with the 

help of Wavehunters at the Extreme Academy surf school, 

there’s no requirement to be Alan Stokes before embracing 

the rippling tides. All levels of ability, from beginners to 

experienced Bettys are welcome by the talented crew of 


instructors, who also teach stand-up paddleboarding and 

run boat trips and fitness classes. The team are passionate 

about their spectacular stretch of coastline and sharing 

their love for the water with others; ‘surf stoked', in their 

own words. 

During the pre-entry briefing on the beach, our teenage 

daughters were quick to bond with the other young ones of 

the group. The icebreaker? Laughing at their inadequate 

parents trying to master the skill of pop-up (transitioning 

from lying down to standing up) onto the board! 

Once in the water, there was some lighthearted 

competition around which of us would catch a wave first, 

along with many hilariously disastrous attempts. 

The youngest picked it up in a shot (of course!) – 

surfing the waves almost effortlessly with every endeavour. 

It took me a while longer – just as I had finally remained 

upright, balancing at speed for the first time, we got called 

back in, and the session was over. 

However, the exhilarating feeling of the waves beneath 

our feet had given us an appetite for more. There was time 

for a quick break before we found ourselves hiring some 

boards for the rest of the day – and the beauty of staying 

at the Beach Loft is the surf-in and surf-out access from 

the suites. Guests have use of their own private wetsuit 

room, hot showers, lockers and board storage adjacent to 

the exclusive lofts. 

This uncomplicated opportunity to relax and take 

a break from the sapping swells when needed provided 

an exhilarating, no-hassle experience for the family – 

we could surf as much or as little as we liked as others 

watched or took Poppy, our two-year-old Spanador, for a 

walk to explore the rock pools and caves. 

It is effortless to holiday here with your canine in tow; 

Watergate Bay is the most dog-friendly hotel you could 

possibly imagine. The staff joke about the pups being their 

favourite guests, but with the attention and doting they 

give them, I’m not sure they’re merely kidding. 

There’s even a doggie photo wall – guests are 

encouraged to use the #WatergateBayMoments for their 

finest pictures and captions, which are then proudly printed, 

displayed and available for collection. Captions made an 

entertaining read, from “feeling salty” to “No... I’m not 

leaving the beach!” 

The two-mile-long stretch of beach at low tide is dog 

friendly all year-round – and your coastal hideaway, 

the laid-back beach lofts, have everything you and your 

furry best friend could need. We stayed in a family suite 

with a large open-plan bedroom and living space with a 

freestanding bath. Each loft has a different layout, unique 

character, warm textures, and stylish interiors. Think 

reclaimed wooden flooring, vintage rugs, upcycled and 

bespoke sofas, coastal books, woven baskets, hand-painted 

table lamps, large-scale seascapes, and rattan basket 

lampshades hanging from the rafters. 

The bathroom interior resumes the outside-in feel with 

beach wood, tropical plants, painted brass fittings and Land 

& Water toiletries inspired by the shoreline and born out of 

Watergate Bay – sustainable products with a heavenly scent 

– available to buy in the giftshop. 


Watergate Bay Beach Lofts 

‘ 

Watergate Bay is the most dog-friendly hotel you could possibly imagine. 

The staff joke about the pups being their favourite guests, but with the attention 

and doting they give them, I’m not sure they’re merely kidding 

’ 

Another advantage of staying in the Beach Lofts is the 

private pantry stocked with fresh coffee, pastries, cereal, fruit, 

juice and more, including a selection of freshly baked cakes 

each afternoon, giving the option to take breakfast to your 

room or a hamper down to the beach. 

However, for a more substantial post-surf refuel, just 

below the lofts is the stylish Beach Hut serving delicious 

local, seasonal produce – with a 50% plant-based menu. 

There’s plenty of options for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 

Some of our favourite choices include their homemade 

Bircher muesli, potato-stuffed flatbread, steamed Cornish 

mussels, and their signature hot chocolate. 

After a morning’s surf, a full-body salt scrub followed 

by a soak in a clifftop Canadian hot tub with the sun on 

our faces could never feel better. As a Beach Loft resident, 

you are also a guest of the Watergate Bay Hotel, including 

at the Swim Club where there’s also an infinity pool, a 

Finnish sauna, a cardio room, a large outdoor decking 

area, and a cafe-bar. 

In the evening, Zacry’s Restaurant is the hotel’s place 

to be, savouring executive chef Neil Haydock’s culinary 

delights under candlelight in a formal – yet relaxed – setting. 


The three-course menu changes each season, with the 

best quality locally sourced meat and fish; slow-roasted 

spring lamb, whole Argentine prawns in garlic butter, and 

slow-cooked beef short rib. There’s plenty of imaginative 

pasta dishes, plant-based options, and mouthwatering 

desserts, including chocolate and brown butter ganache 

with pickled blackberries. For casual dining, head to The 

Living Space, serving British classics, from seasonal salads 

to hearty grills. It's open for lunch too, and there’s a great 

children’s menu and cosy snug where you can sit back, play 

games and make yourself at home. 

Located on the seawall, the highly acclaimed Emily 

Scott restaurant serves the best of seasonal Cornish 

produce and is independently owned and highly 

recommended to guests. Or, plan your visit for The 

Beach Hut’s Lobster Friday, and enjoy their Cornish 

special drizzled in hot parsley butter – freshly caught from 

Newquay Harbour. 

And if it isn’t Friday, pop to the local fishmonger and 

enjoy a beach barbecue; with Cornwall’s clear night skies 

and perfect sunset views, it is one of the best barbecue 

spots in the UK. 

For well-deserved relaxation, join a morning or 

sundown beach-yoga session, take a stroll along the South 

West Coast Path (which is on the hotel’s doorstep) or 

seek out the ocean room, one of our favourite spots in the 

hotel, where it is easy to find a cosy corner and armchair to 

sink into against the backdrop of the waves. 

We spent the last evening of our holiday here, playing 

board games, drinking cocktails and treasuring our final 

spectacular sunset together. 

Jessica Way was a guest of Watergate Bay Hotel, 

Cornwall, staying in the new Beach Lofts. Prices to stay in 

the Beach Lofts from £545 per night, hotel bedrooms from 

£199 per night, watergatebay.co.uk 

‘...seek out the ocean room, one of our favourite spots in the hotel, where it is easy 

to find a cosy corner and armchair to sink into against the backdrop of the waves 

’ 

IMAGES © EDITORS OWN / SAMUEL CROSBY / LEWIS HARRISON PINDER / MICHAEL LAZENBY 




the 

MEET 

MAKER 

In what turns out to be a surprising story, we meet the founder of 

Cotswolds Distillery, a native New Yorker who relocated from the world 

of finance to this picturesque part of England to follow a dream 

Text by Karyn Noble 

Most people have romantic associations with 

the concept of The Cotswolds, a region in 

south-central England that seems to have 

cornered the market in charming villages, 

idyllic woodlands, and the green rolling hills lined with 

stone walls that always seem to feature in TV series set 

in the countryside. The founder of Cotswolds Distillery, 

Daniel Szor, also fell under its spell. 

But there’s a big difference between being a whisky 

lover and suddenly deciding you want to be the Cotswolds’ 

first whisky distiller. It was a lightbulb moment that 

occurred to Dan in the summer of 2012, a year or so 

after he and his wife Katia bought their dream home, a 

weekender they would initially commute to from their 

flat in London’s West Hampstead, three miles from the 

current distillery site. Cotswolds Distillery now hosts over 

100,000 visitors a year and its gins and whiskies are highly 

acclaimed the world over. It’s a huge achievement from 

one man who turned his back on a 30-year career in the 

finance industry to follow his heart on a whim, or as he 

puts it, “a guy who basically loved the visitor experience of 

distilleries he visited enough to want to build one.” 

Capturing the Magic of The Cotswolds 

“I call this the Vermont of the UK,” says Dan. “The reason 

I thought this thing might have a chance of working was 

because The Cotswolds gets 30 million visitors a year. It 

occupies this important, green, happy place in the hearts 

of lots of people.” 

A longtime whisky fan, Dan had made previous trips 

to Scottish distilleries with friends and was struck by the 

passion of the producers. “Anything that didn’t involve 

selling derivatives was inspiring to me.” Apart from visiting 

distilleries on his days away from the finance world, he had 

zero experience of the drinks industry and, since that day 

in 2012 when he wondered why no-one had thought to 

make whisky from all the barley growing in the Cotswolds, 

he has essentially figured out what to do as he went along. 

However, he had some important mentors. “The only 

thing I could do was try and surround myself with the best 

possible people,” says Dan. 

Jim McEwan of Bruichladdich was an early supporter 

who told Dan to follow his dream, and set him up in May 

2013 with Harry Cockburn, an expert on the operational 

side of opening and running a distillery. 


“ 

The [original] shop was so small that people couldn’t fit in there... they didn’t 

particularly want to leave and most of them had made a day of it. They weren’t 

in any rush to go home but there was nowhere for them to go 

” 

He also needed to learn how to make whisky. “I knew as 

much as anyone who had gone on 20 or 30 distillery tours,” 

says Dan. And that’s where (the late) Dr Jim Swan has been 

instrumental in steering Dan’s epiphany of being the first 

to make a spirit from local barley (Warminster Maltings, 

70 miles away, supply them with their key ingredient of 

Cotswolds malt) into a delicious reality. 

Often known as ‘the Einstein of whisky’, Jim imparted 

his knowledge of the entire production process to Dan. Of 

course, while they were waiting the necessary years for their 

whisky to mature, there was gin to enjoy. 

“I call it our unexpected lovechild,” says Dan, “which 

we now love every bit as much as our whisky. We tried 150 

different botanicals and 60 prototype gins. It’s the kind of gin 

a whisky drinker would like.” But the experimentation doesn’t 

stop there. “I used to live in France, and I loved Calvados, we 

started making what we call Cotswold-vados. 

We’ve done two amaros, we’ve done a vermouth, I’m hoping 

we go bigger scale with rum.” 

It’s clear Cotswolds Distillery is on the cusp of even bigger 

things. What started as an organisation of just seven people, 

is now home to around 50 staff. They picked up 1,500 

investors along the way, and can make around 350,000 

bottles of whisky a year. 

A New Visitor Experience 

Cotswolds Distillery created a new visitor centre at the 

end of 2019, as a result of the increasing popularity of the 

distillery tours. 

“The [original] shop was so small that people couldn’t 

fit in there,” says Dan. “And after doing their nice 

90-minute tour, they didn’t particularly want to leave and 


FIRST PAGE: DAN 

SZOR WITH STILLS 

CLOCKWISE FROM 

LEFT: GUEST ENJOYS 

AN OLD FASHIONED 

COCKTAIL; 

COTSWOLDS 

DISTILLERY 

ENTRANCE; WHISKY 

CASKS; WHISKY 

STILLS; NEW £3 

MILLION DISTILLERY 

NEXT PAGE: DAN 

SZOR 

most of them had made a day of it. 

They weren’t in any rush to go home 

but there was nowhere for them to 

go.” 

Dan hired an architect and, inspired 

by the aesthetics of nearby Soho 

House, created a visitor centre that 

was more like a clubhouse and a 

brand home “where they could hang 

out all day if they wanted”. If you visit 

now, there’s the Still House Café with 

an open fire, a cosy wood-burning 

stove in the tasting room, and more 

space to do bespoke masterclasses. 

Brand new distillery in 2023 

On 5 January 2023, the Cotswolds 

Distillery became part of English 

whisky history, opening a new £3 

million distillery (four times the size of 

the original) on an extra six acres of 

land. It’s now the largest producer of 

English whisky, with capacity to churn 

out 500,000 litres of pure alcohol a 

year, allowing it to meet increasing 

demand, globally and in the UK. 

“Our ambitions have grown,” Dan 

says. “If I think about how I want to 

leave this place …the visitor centre… 

I’m so happy with it…it’s the way it 

ought to be. And if we’re in the middle 

of this beautiful, really breathtaking 

part of the North Cotswolds, 

surrounded by hills and fields…then 

why don’t we, in this country that 

values gardens more than any other 

country in the world, make a stunning 

place so that your outdoor time can 

be as nice as your indoor time.” 

So, even if you’ve had the pleasure 

of visiting Cotswolds Distillery before, 

now there are even more reasons to 

return. 


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The Bower House: 

“Owned by Andrew Knight, former editor of The 

Economist, now just a local who likes to be in the foodie 

scene and owns an amazing food store called Taste of 

the Country in nearby Shipston-on-Stour; right next to 

it in an old listed building, he’s made this very nice little 

restaurant. It has nice rooms too.” 

IMAGES © STEVE JENKINS 

Dan’s Food and Accommodation 

Tips in The Cotswolds 

— 

A self-confessed foodie, Dan needs little encouragement 

to share his favourite finds in the North Cotswolds region: 

> The Old Butchers: 

“What you typically get in the English countryside is 

either ‘pub’ or ‘posh’. If you want seriously good food 

but without a starched napkin and a lot of people 

hovering over you, this is one restaurant that I think pulls 

it off really well. They’re in Stow-on-the-Wold, which 

is about 15 minutes away from us. It’s one of the only 

places where you can get really good langoustine or a 

really good lobster and actually really good shellfish and 

oysters. They also have really amazing charcuterie, some 

of it’s homemade and really good grills and meats. It’s 

simple food and not overly pretentious.” 

> The Red Lion Inn: 

“I certainly love my pubs as much as the next person. 

One of the closest villages to us is Long Compton and 

this is a nice country pub, which has what you’d expect 

from one: good food, good ales, good beers, good gins 

and good whiskies. It also has nice rooms.” 

> Restaurant Henne: 

“At the top of the restaurant heap within 10 minutes of 

us, in a town called Moreton-in-Marsh is this new-ish 

place [opened June 2021] that only has six tables and 

14 covers. I went there with my wife for dinner and we 

were completely blown away. It has a prix-fixe sevencourse 

meal at what I think for that quality food and that 

number of courses and that originality and creativity, is 

a pretty decent price. It’s unpretentious but seriously well 

thought through, it’s great.” 

> The Old Kiln House: 

“This B&B in Shipston-on-Stour, about 10 minutes from 

the distillery, is owned by a couple who built it a few 

years ago, the rooms are nice, they’re nice people, if 

you’re looking for a B&B, you can’t go wrong there.” 

> Feldon Valley: 

If you’re looking for something closer to the distillery that 

you can toddle back to on foot, and particularly if you’re 

into golf (but not necessarily), there’s a local golf club 

bought by a businessman who made it into a mini resort. 

He built about 25 rooms, they aren’t way over the top, 

they’re modern, clean, bright, with nice views; some of 

them are in a copse of trees. I’d unreservedly recommend it. 

> Ettington Park Hotel: 

"If you’re willing to go with the traditional English 

country house hotel, which is slightly eccentric, there’s 

this place. We did a whisky makers’ conference in 2018 

[World Whisky Forum], where we put 50 whisky makers 

from around the world here. It’s maybe 20 minutes away 

and almost Agatha Christie-like, a huge old mansion 

pile with a beautiful wood around it. The rooms have 

been renovated, no two are alike, and in tune with the 

architectural features of the place. 


ISLAND 

HOPPING 

in the 

HEBRIDES 

Remote, romantic and utterly unspoilt, these 

Scottish isles are the perfect antidote to everyday life 

Text by Emma O'Reilly 



PREVIOUS PAGE: SAILING BY EIGG 

AND RÙM. CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: 

EMMA AND DAISY O'REILLY; BARRA 

ISLAND; BELTED GALLOWAY; DOLPHIN 

NEXT PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: 

INVERIE; KINLOCH CASTLE; MALLAIG; 

SEAL; KINLOCH CASTLE HALL 

It is always the way. The moment I 

descend to our cabin my teenage 

daughter, Daisy, yells “Quick, 

Mummy!” I rush back up on deck 

to see what the fuss is about and 

am greeted by a family of dolphins 

smiling and skipping joyfully 

alongside our little boat. Last time it 

was a minke whale surfacing. Just a 

couple of the treats we have enjoyed 

on our weeklong sailing adventure 

around Scotland’s Hebrides. 

Our trip is with VentureSail, which 

have a choice of boats exploring this 

region – including yachts and tall 

ships. Most boats, like ours, have their 

own skipper and chef, so guests can 

either sit back, relax, and enjoy the 

views or learn a few sailing techniques 

if they are interested. 

Life on board quickly settles into 

a routine. After breakfast we sail for 

a while, binoculars close at hand, 

then anchor off a new island. We 

are decanted into an orange dinghy, 

which whisks us ashore and then we 

are free to explore. 

First there is Eigg, where we climb 

a heather-smothered hill before 

descending sharply to the Massacre 

Cave. In a long-ago clan war, 400 

islanders hid here from vengeful 

rivals from Skye. Their hiding spot 

was eventually found, the narrow 

entrance to the cave stuffed with 

vegetation and set alight. Nobody 

survived. It is just one of the many 

stories we learn from our skipper, 

who has spent his whole life in the 

Hebrides. 

Back on board we enjoy the 

sunshine. Behind us a silky, milky sea 

ripples below velvet blue mountains. 

As the light fades, we moor off 

Vatersay island. Gleaming white 

sands are fringed with emerald grass, 

where cows chomp thoughtfully. 

Behind it all, a supersized sun melts, 

red, pink and orange, into the sea. It 

is spellbinding. 

Next morning, we see the cows 

up close as we go ashore. This time 

they have taken over the beach. 

Daisy, made of sterner stuff than 

me, strides in for a swim. Most of the 

cows take no notice, but one paddles 

into the shallows and slurps the sea 

water – they love the salt apparently. 

Afterwards, a wander through the 

nearby village, with its Nordic-looking 

wooden homes, leads us to the island 

graveyard. We note the young age 

of so many buried here – testament 

perhaps to the toughness of life on 

these isles, where the sea is one of the 

few sources of income, and medical 

facilities are sparse. 


‘ 

We cross a small road, follow a little path and 

discover another stretch of soft bleached sand, 

lapped with lazy waves. It could be the Caribbean, 

especially on this warm, sunny day 

’ 

We walk the length of the island, 

passing fields, the occasional house 

and some magnificent Belted 

Galloway cows, with their thick fur 

coats perfect for braving any chilly 

weather. A pedestrian bridge takes 

Another day, another island. Barra 

is one of the most remote. Our 

skipper tells us how lucky we are with 

the weather – it’s the first time he’s 

reached the island all summer. A 

local taxi driver gives us a tour. 

At the island’s airport, little 

planes take off and land on the 

‘runway’ – in reality just a huge 

sweep of sandy beach. When we tire 

of plane spotting, we cross a small 

road, follow a little path and discover 

another stretch of soft bleached 

sand, lapped with lazy waves. It 

could be the Caribbean, especially 

on this warm, sunny day. We are the 

only ones here. 

Back on board, our boat passes 

the looming basalt Cliffs of Canna 

and we spot sea eagles flying above. 

We climb ashore at Sanday island, 

where there is a haunting ruined 

church (one of three dotted across 

Sanday and neighbouring Canna). 


‘ 

As the light fades, we moor off Vatersay island. Gleaming white sands are 

fringed with emerald grass, where cows chomp thoughtfully 

’ 

us to Canna. From it we see deep 

kelp forests below the crystal-clear 

surface of the sea. On the other side 

we chance upon an old dairy, where 

a few items are for sale, alongside a 

donation box. A small sign tells me 

that they were once the belongings 

of Magda, a Spanish lady who 

came here on holiday since being a 

child then later made friends with 

a local couple, the Campbells. She 

eventually moved to the island herself 

and became the archivist for the 

Campbell’s impressive home, Canna 

House (now owned by The National 

Trust for Scotland). Magda recently 

died and her husband is selling some 

of her possessions to raise money for 

a cancer charity. I buy a small fishshaped 

ceramic dish as an unusual 

and rather touching souvenir. 

As we arrive at Rùm in the early 

evening another spectacular sunset 

awaits. Above the dark outline of a 

volcanic peak, fluffy clouds hover, 

their blush pink and gold hues 

reflected in the still, silent water 

below. Some seals come to say hello. 

The next morning is for 

exploring. Wooded trails lead us 

past a surprisingly stylish modern 

bunk house and a tiny, unstaffed 

‘boutique’, where modern technology 

allows my daughter to buy a knitted 

halterneck top by scanning a 

barcode. We find the island’s general 

store, too, but it’s closed. A sign on 

the door states - ‘Dinnae Even Knock 

– The Shop is Closed’! 

IMAGES © SHUTTERSTOCK / EMMA O'REILLY / PT CREATIVE / 

VENTURE SAIL VISITSCOTLAND / PAUL TOMKINS / KENNY LAM 


Our last stop on the island is the 

most intriguing. Kinloch Castle, 

built as a shooting lodge and party 

house for an aristocrat in 1897, is like 

something from a Dickens novel. I can 

just imagine Miss Havisham sitting 

upstairs in her wedding dress. It’s all 

locked up, but through the windows 

we see dusty rooms with mahogany 

panelling and shredded silk curtains. 

A taxidermied golden eagle looks 

down at the white rabbit it has caught 

in its claws. 

‘ 

We hear that the castle has recently been on sale 

for £1. The catch is that the buyer must commit to 

spending several million pounds on its restoration 

’ 

There’s a library, still stuffed with 

books, and a vast galleried hall with 

a grand piano, animal skin rugs and 

ancestral paintings. We hear that the 

castle has recently been on sale for £1. 

The catch is that the buyer must 

commit to spending several million 

pounds on its restoration. 

As we start our return to mainland 

Mallaig, where we started our 

journey, we stop off briefly on the 

Knoydart peninsula, at the tiny village 

of Inverie. It is accessible only by a 

two-day hike across the Highlands 

– or by boat. Still, there are plenty 

of people here and it feels positively 

buzzy after the quiet of the last few 

days. We sit outside the pub drinking 

rosé wine and toasting our good 

fortune. 

Our week has been pure luxury. 

Not luxury in terms of five-star 

accommodations and service, but 

that thing that many of us crave – 

peace, exclusivity and the opportunity 

to spend quality time together, with 

no interruption. Our mobile phones, 

usually whipping us into a constant 

state of alertness have been mostly 

forgotten; work and other stresses put 

out of our minds entirely. Priceless. 

Emma O’Reilly travelled with her 

daughter as a guest of VentureSail. 

One-weeklong yacht and tall ship 

itineraries start from £1,017 per person, 

with all meals and skipper included. 

Guests can book a cabin or a whole boat, 

venturesailholidays.com 


Warwick 

A WALK AROUND 

Steeped in history, Warwick is 

one of the best-preserved towns 

in England, with a range of 

civic architecture from medieval 

gateways to Georgian townhouses 

plus a superb castle. It’s easy 

to spend an hour or two on this 

delightful circular walk 

Text by Adrian Mourby | Illustrations by Sophie Minto 

Warwick is a beautiful English county 

town , and its medieval shape is still 

visible even if its city walls have all 

but gone. During Wars of the Roses 

the earls of Warwick were hugely 

important powerbrokers. The bear, chained to a tree 

stump was their symbol, which is why to this day so many 

English pubs have the name of either The Bear or The 

Bear and Ragged Staff. The most powerful of all Earls 

of Warwick, Richard Neville (1428 – 1471) deposed two 

Plantagenet kings, which is why he became known as 

Warwick The Kingmaker. 

Start this walk in front of a very different kind of 

warrior king, Randolph Turpin, whose statue stands 

in front of the Rose & Crown Pub. Turpin was born in 

nearby Leamington Spa in 1928 but went to school and 

lived most of his life in Warwick. In 1951 he became World 

Middleweight Champion. His combative statue faces 

on to Market Place, which once functioned as a parade 

ground for the Warwickshire Fusiliers. Opposite Turpin’s 

statue is the Market Hall, which was built in 1670 and 


‘ 

Opposite Turpin’s statue is the Market 

Hall, which was built in 1670 and was 

originally open-sided. Today it is a 

museum for the County of Warwick... 

’ 

was originally open-sided. Today it is a museum for the 

County of Warwick and contains a video installation that 

recreates medieval Warwick in great detail. 

Walk north through the Market Square and you’ll pass 

a number of pubs or former pubs – historically markets 

and alehouses were inseparable. The Tilted Wig (formerly 

The Green Dragon) on your left doubled as the town 

‘shambles’. It served beer at a counter facing on to the 

square while butchers were busy hacking carcasses of 

dead animals apart to the rear. 

At the top of Market Square turn right past the new 

county offices (notice the Bear symbol that has now 

been adopted for the whole of Warwickshire). Now pass 

through Old Square to St Mary’s Church. 

This splendid structure with its 174-foot tower was 

rebuilt in the 18th century after the terrible fire of 1694 

that destroyed two-thirds of the old inner city. Heroic 

firefighting teams managed to save half of the church, 

including the Beauchamp Chapel dedicated to the earls 

of Warwick. Now head south down Church Street past 

the Athenaeum. This former home of a town mayor 

was opened in 1846, following the model of the London 

Athenaeum, a club founded in 1824 where gentlemen 

could read books and newspapers and enjoy intelligent 

conversation. 


At the bottom of Church Street note the Warwick Arms 

to your right on High Street and the Old Court House 

on Jury Street to your left. These two streets are part of 

the same thoroughfare from Warwick’s Westgate to its 

Eastgate, but at this point High Street quaintly becomes 

Jury Street, to the confusion of visitors. 

The Warwick Arms is the town’s oldest coaching inn, 

dating back to 1591 in this very position. The Court House 

was built on the site of a tavern that was demolished in 

1725 so that Warwick’s first baroque building – a sign of 

great civic affluence – could be built. A figure of Justice 

cast in lead still stands above the main door, while inside 

is a museum to the Warwickshire Yeomanry Regiment. 

Upstairs the courthouse has a ballroom designed for 

music and cardplaying, and which is still used for social 

events in the town. 

Walking down Jury Street as it descends towards 

Eastgate, the visitor passes a range of buildings in 

different styles, from half-timbered Tudor structures to 

18th-century mansions in brick and stone. 

Pretty much all of Jury Street was spared the Great 

Fire, as was the East Gate itself. This is a pretty, ornate 

structure built originally in the 12th century, but then 

embellished with a 15th-century church on top. The 

Church of St Peter originally stood in the High Street 

where it would have burned down, so the relocation was 

prescient. It was not unusual in England to build churches 

and chapels on top of solid structures like gatehouses, 

but Warwick is unusual in having two such composite 

buildings, one in the east here and one at the West Gate. 

Turning right before you pass through East Gate, walk 

downhill as far as Castle Lane on your right, which leads 

to Warwick Castle, one of the best-known fortresses in 

England. You can leave the lane to walk as far as the 

castle stables, which serve today as a ticket office. 

This unusually well-preserved castle is well worth 

visiting, although it will take you at least half a day to 

do it justice. These days it is owned, not by the earls of 

Warwick, but by a company that includes the Tussauds 

Group. A very convincing Henry VIII is there with all 

his six wives as well as Warwick the Kingmaker and the 

recreation of a Victorian house party of 1898 in Warwick 

Castle, which includes a young Winston Churchill. 


‘ 

The hospital runs as far as the Chapel 

of St James, which has been built over 

the West Gate. Here the road has been 

cut deep into the rock to make a steep 

entrance into medieval Warwick. 

’ 

Even if you are not visiting the castle, you will get glimpses 

of the monumental Guy’s Tower and the fortifications built 

by King Richard III as you return to Castle Lane. Now turn 

right on Back Lane past 18th-century Alderson House, 

which is the august meeting place of the local Freemasons. 

The fanlight over its front door (on High Street) is a direct 

and – as far as we know – intentional copy of that over 10 

Downing Street in London. 

Now turn left down High Street and The Lord 

Leycester Hospital will soon be visible. This almshouse 

for former soldiers was endowed by Queen Elizabeth’s 

favourite, Robert Dudley Earl of Leicester in 1571. Inside 

its half-timbered facade exists a pre-existing 14th-century 

banqueting hall and part of the old Angel Inn. The 

hospital runs as far as the Chapel of St James, which has 

been built over the West Gate. Here the road has been cut 

deep into the rock to make a steep entrance into medieval 

Warwick. The gateway is full of old locking mechanisms to 

keep latecomers out at night. 

From Lord Leycester’s Hospital there is a short walk back 

along Brook Street to Market Place. And there is the statue 

of Randolph Turpin, still standing ready for a fight. 

Plan your trip to Warwick 

Where to stay 

▶ Mallory Court: Three miles southeast of 

Warwick sits this beautiful early 20th-century 

manor house with a deserved reputation for fine 

dining. There is also an excellent spa and formal 

gardens. 

mallory.co.uk 

▶ The Warwick Arms: The town’s oldest hotel 

dates back to 1591 on this site but the current 

structure replaced a coaching inn that burned 

down in the devastating fire of 1694. Notable 

guests have included Lord Nelson, Mark Twain 

and Frank Sinatra. 

warwickarmshotel.co.uk 

▶ The Rose & Crown: This simple but friendly inn 

on Market Square was created by amalgamating 

two Georgian townhouses. The main dining 

room is decorated with David Bailey's black-andwhite 

photos of Mick Jagger, Elton John, and 

Lord Snowdon in the Swinging Sixties. 

roseandcrownwarwick.co.uk 

Where to eat 

▶ Tailors: Housed in the former premises of a 

gentleman’s outfitter, Tailors Restaurant is owned 

by chefs Dan Cavell and Mark Fry, who offer an 

impressive tasting menu. 

tailorsrestaurant.co.uk 

▶ Thomas Oken’s House: This cosy cafe serves 

cream teas and all-day snacks inside a halftimbered 

house that belonged to a wealthy 

16th-century mercer who dealt in silks and luxury 

goods. 

thomasokentearooms.co.uk 

▶ The Tilted Wig: Good, sturdy British food at 

a pub with rooms that has outdoor tables out on 

Market Square. There are a few vegetarian dishes 

but this is a great place for steak and chips. 

tiltedwigwarwick.co.uk 


See the sea! 

COASTAL 

STAYS 

Whether you want to fall asleep to the sound of waves or pop 

outside for a pre-breakfast swim, we pick the best hotels across 

the British Isles with rooms beside the sea 

Text by Natalie Paris 

1 

Cary Arms & Spa, Devon 

Between thickly wooded headlands and 

above Babbacombe Bay, the Cary Arms has 

an unrivalled waterfront position. This old inn 

has been gracefully extended over the years to 

provide accommodation to suit all beachgoers. 

Here, the crash of waves will soothe you to sleep, 

especially after a day spent exploring neighbouring 

coves along the South West Coast Path. Choose 

from rooms with sea-facing terraces, traditional 

cottages that accept children and dogs, or the 

Beach Huts, where couples can fling open bifold 

doors and sunbathe beside the sea. The modern, 

cedar-clad Beach Suites are particularly luxurious, 

with spacious decking. Soothe tired feet in the spa’s 

hydrotherapy pool or enjoy leisurely dining at the 

restaurant, which celebrates ingredients plucked 

fresh from the bay. 

Doubles from £205, caryarms.co.uk 


2 

St Brides Spa Hotel, Wales 

Most of the 34, generously sized 

bedrooms at this contemporary hotel 

overlook Saundersfoot’s Blue Flag 

beach and harbour. Bag an Ocean Garden 

Room, if you can, as these have beach views, 

super-king Hypnos beds and separate living 

areas. The spa’s infinity hydrotherapy pool is 

the ideal place for contemplating the ebb and 

flow of the tides, with views for miles across 

the sand beneath. There is also a thermal suite 

to relax in, comprising various showers and 

saunas. Suitably refreshed, you can saunter 

afterwards to the Cliff Restaurant for a locally 

caught seafood dinner beside floor-to-ceiling 

windows that frame the bay. Alternatively, 

try the afternoon tea that is served on the 

outdoor terrace. Two-bedroom apartments 

are a good choice for families, and glorious 

walks are available along the Pembrokeshire 

Coast Path. 

Doubles from £200, stbridesspahotel.com 


3 

Carbis Bay, Cornwall 

The beach at Carbis Bay, near St Ives, 

is a sheltered stretch of creamy sand 

owned by the family run hotel behind it. 

With a glamorous Bamford spa, four restaurants 

and lodges that housed world leaders during the 

G7, the hotel attracts repeat visitors and those 

seeking a luxurious coastal escape. Beach Lodges 

are positioned right above the sand, with four or 

five bedrooms, upmarket kitchens and hot tubs 

overlooking the waves. Beach Suites are a similarly 

high standard. The spa’s heated outdoor pool 

has panoramic views and is somewhere to bathe 

while spotting seals and dolphins, or watching 

paddleboarders out in the bay. 

Doubles from £250, carbisbayhotel.co.uk 


5 

The Red Lion at Clovelly, Devon 

You will find The Red Lion on the harbour’s 

edge at Clovelly (our front cover photo of 

this issue), a village hemmed in by green 

headlands, where fishermans’ cottages sit side by 

side along a donkeys-only, cobbled lane that rolls 

down to the sea. 

The village was recorded in the Domesday Book 

and visitors have to pay to enter it. However, hotel 

guests have the harbour to themselves (and locals) 

at the end of the day, and nothing but a soundtrack 

of waves to help them sleep. 

The Red Lion’s 19 bedrooms have subtle nautical 

themes and each is within sight of the sea. The 

most luxurious bedrooms are the six housed in the 

Sail Loft, next door. Entrance to The Clovelly Court 

Gardens is also free for guests. 

Doubles from £185 a night, redlion-clovelly.co.uk 

4 

Seaham Hall, Durham 

This Georgian manor house lies on 

Durham’s heritage coast, a place for 

bracing walks along the cliffs. Beaches – 

some shiny with smooth, glass pebbles that hint at 

the coast’s industrial past – are a short stroll away, 

beyond 37 acres of parkland. The five-star hotel has 

just 21 suites and offers a raft of services, so guests 

feel truly pampered. Bungalow Suites have their 

own hot tubs with sea views, while the Garden Suite 

has a wood-fired hot tub. The Ada Lovelace Suite, 

meanwhile, features twin slipper baths, perfect 

for couples who want to enjoy a soak while gazing 

across the grounds. The spa is huge, with an indoor 

pool, a hammam, a sauna, and a heated therapy 

pool outside in a zen garden. 

Doubles from £295, seaham-hall.co.uk 


6 

St Brelade’s Bay Hotel, Jersey 

With a wide, golden-sand beach 

stretching before it, it’s no wonder 

that the St Brelade’s Bay Hotel has 

been a favourite with Jersey holidaymakers for 

generations. Guests can watch waves wash the 

popular bay from a multitude of angles, including 

from the five acres of gardens. There are 77 

bedrooms, each elegantly dressed, including 

family rooms and sea-view rooms. The Bay Suite 

has sunloungers above the beach, while solo 

travellers will delight in the fact that even some 

single rooms have sea-facing balconies. The 

health club is wrapped in glass and also overlooks 

the coast. For a post-workout pamper, the spa 

offers a heated indoor pool, steam room and 

treatments. Afternoon tea in the Bay Restaurant 

is a treat and a cafe terrace opens above the 

sparkling outdoor pool in summer. 

Doubles from £125, stbreladesbayhotel.com 

7 

The Nare, Cornwall 

The coves of the lush Roseland Peninsula 

are easily reached from The Nare, a family 

run country house hotel sitting behind 

Carne’s swathe of golden sand. The hotel claims its 

Whittington Suites are some of the largest sea-view 

hotel suites in Britain. Each has a second bedroom 

that is also a dressing room, two bathrooms and 

a broad balcony or terrace facing the big blue. 

The hotel’s detached cottage, Lemoria, is similarly 

positioned to enjoy the splendid seascapes, as is 

the hotel’s outdoor pool, which is set on a garden 

patio above the beach. A hot tub faces the setting 

sun and the spa has a second pool, sauna and 

steam room inside. However, the highlight of any 

stay is likely to be a trip out on one of the hotel’s 

two boats. 

Doubles from £396, narehotel.co.uk 


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8 

The Gallivant, East 

Sussex 

Set back on a road behind 

Camber Sands, The Gallivant 

is a chic new beach property with a 

focus on wellness. An adults-only 

hotel, it has an eco garden inspired by 

the dunes out front, with succulents, 

pines and drought-tolerant shrubs. 

Daily yoga classes help guests find 

inner calm, and wellness workshops 

range from peloton bike sessions to 

sound baths and wild swimming. Spa 

treatments are available in a beach 

cabin [pictured], which makes up for its 

size with indulgent Bamford products. 

The best of the 20 bedrooms have oak 

panelling, such as the Baby Hampton 

room, private terraces and/or rolltop 

baths. More than 90 percent of 

the produce used in the restaurant is 

local (within 20 miles) and there is an 

extensive English wine list. Best of all, 

guests can order hot toddies and fish 

and chips to eat on the beach. 

Doubles from £165, thegallivant.co.uk 


10 

Artist Residence, Brighton 

Bohemian hotel group Artist 

Residence opened its first hotel in 

2008 in a neglected Brighton B&B 

that needed redecorating. Artists were given free 

board while they helped revive the place and the 

result was a quirky townhouse with reclaimed 

furniture and views across Regency Square 

to the sea. Of the 23 bedrooms, many afford 

views towards the ruined West Pier. Three stylish 

apartments are set in the adjacent building, one 

with its own wrought-iron balcony (though the best 

room in the house has a similarly gorgeous balcony 

too). A witty selection of art includes limited-edition 

prints from David Shrigley and neon signage from 

Brighton artist Andy Doig. The Clubhouse is a 

neighbourhood hangout and cafe-bar, with sofas 

in House of Hackney velvet and seafront views 

through a large bay window. 

Doubles from £95, artistresidence.co.uk 

9 

Knockinaam Lodge, Scotland 

For utter seclusion by the Irish sea, 19thcentury 

Knockinaam Lodge has a shingle 

beach out front and is backed by a hilly 

ridge. The cove is private, so guests in the former 

hunting lodge’s 10 bedrooms will have it all to 

themselves, along with 30 acres of landscaped 

grounds. The comfortable, classic interiors feature 

wood panelling, period-style beds and muted 

tartans. The Bay room is a highlight, featuring a 

Victorian Tester bed, a window seat and sea views. 

A luxurious, self-catered cottage sits on the grounds 

too. Local producers supply the majority of what 

is cooked up in the sustainably minded restaurant, 

where the tasting menu might include Drummore 

lobster or scallops from Skye. In summer, there is 

the option to enjoy a BBQ dinner out on the lodge’s 

alfresco patio, close to the waves. 

Doubles from £380, knockinaamlodge.com 


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ACROSS 

1 --- the Musical, about a little 

liar (7) 

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10 Defeats (9) 

11 Genre for Destiny's Child (1,3,1) 

12 Watergate Bay chef --- Scott (5) 

13 Turkish peninsula whose name 

means "beautiful city" (9) 

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a tree (7) 

19 Rebellious region of the 

Caucasus (7) 

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29 Wise advice in an explosives 

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31 Aden denizens (7) 

DOWN 

1 He played Bond and the Saint (5) 

2 Sheridan play (3,6) 

3 Lottery winner's comment (5,2) 

4 Ecclesiastical capital of Ireland (6) 

6 Where one may walk and visit the 

Kingmaker's castle (7) 

7 Kemo Sabe's sidekick (5) 

8 Island-hopping locale north of the 

border (8) 

9 "Practical Cats" poet (1,1,5) 

16 Atomic pin explodes, causing a 

dental problem (9) 

17 Glorious home to the Pheasantry (8) 

18 Mutation (7) 

20 --- Teg, Welsh mythological 

creatures (7) 

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(3,4) 

23 Cotswolds Distillery product (6) 

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ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 14 | SPRING 2023 

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